planning route for new CH system and advice on Hep2o pipes

[pana37]

Hi all new to this site

I'm planning on a New CH system with Combi-Boiler will all new Rads also this house currently has a warm air system which is being replaced.

1. I would like to run the pipes in Hep2o barrier i believe. idea is to drill holes into joists and feed 22mm pipes I have a long landing so will be the main run.

2. i was thinking of channeling in a few pipes on the ground floor walls to conceal the pipes, is this a good idea? what can i put in the channel to prevent any long term issues?

3. is it worth me buying a right angle drill to make holes? as will be making a few holes everywhere

look forward to your thoughts thanks

 

[Keefy]

Who's fitting the combi?

 

[AWheating]

hire a drill, stick to drill zones and hole spaces so you dont weaken your floor, follow the plastic's manufacturers instructions, pressure test the pipework, get a gas safe engineer to do all the gas work including the position and fixng of the boiler.

is your cold main suitable for a combi?

your warm air system could well contain asbestos, and any surrounding boxings so get it removed by a expert. Get advice from your gas safe engineer.

textured ceilings may also contain asbestos.

if it was me id do it all in copper, i only really think plastic is suitable on new builds tbh.

good luck.

 

[pana37]

Who's fitting the combi?

not myself will be a gas safe engineer, used him before at my old house

 

[pana37]

hire a drill, stick to drill zones and hole spaces so you dont weaken your floor, follow the plastic's manufacturers instructions, pressure test the pipework, get a gas safe engineer to do all the gas work including the position and fixng of the boiler.

is your cold main suitable for a combi?

your warm air system could well contain asbestos, and any surrounding boxings so get it removed by a expert. Get advice from your gas safe engineer.

textured ceilings may also contain asbestos.

if it was me id do it all in copper, i only really think plastic is suitable on new builds tbh.

good luck.

thanks for your reply
i was wondering about copper how would you run 22mm pipes in joists? I would have though notching out the joists would weaken them? thats why i like the idea of the Hep2o the have revamped them from old and have a new type of fitting which ensures the pipe is fully home.

the engineer came to check my pressure he says its fine for combi boiler

ill have to check about hiring one tbh i was going to do this in stages so may not be a good idea to hire

 

[happyflyer]

Hi all new to this site

I'm planning on a New CH system with Combi-Boiler will all new Rads also this house currently has a warm air system which is being replaced.

1. I would like to run the pipes in Hep2o barrier i believe. idea is to drill holes into joists and feed 22mm pipes I have a long landing so will be the main run.

2. i was thinking of channeling in a few pipes on the ground floor walls to conceal the pipes, is this a good idea? what can i put in the channel to prevent any long term issues?

3. is it worth me buying a right angle drill to make holes? as will be making a few holes everywhere

look forward to your thoughts thanks

Pana,

Plumbing is so easy these days, why some plumbers get it all wrong I will never know, push fit this, push fit that, a joiner can do it now, you see them at B&Q pondering in the bins, push fit bins, they never go near the flow solder bins, only for the proper plumbers, ask the assistant on the plumbing section he was a plumber in real life, be nice if you could go a pop your head in a new house under construction and see how its done, thrown in with panache and then plastered over, nothing straight or plumb, who cares anymore. Good luck with your plastic project, you will need to change to copper when you get close to the boiler and then you will have to stop, big boys time then, can you smell gas, yes I have just purge the gas up to the boiler, happy days.:behead:

 

[happyflyer]

hire a drill, stick to drill zones and hole spaces so you dont weaken your floor, follow the plastic's manufacturers instructions, pressure test the pipework, get a gas safe engineer to do all the gas work including the position and fixng of the boiler.

is your cold main suitable for a combi?

your warm air system could well contain asbestos, and any surrounding boxings so get it removed by a expert. Get advice from your gas safe engineer.

textured ceilings may also contain asbestos.

if it was me id do it all in copper, i only really think plastic is suitable on new builds tbh.

good luck.

Very good all round advice and a man who knows what is is doing, he would do it in copper 10/10

 

[pana37]

i didnt think id get this many replies to my post, i know you guys are pros and hate the cr*p plastic. for me its fine i think

i was wondering about copper how would you run 22mm pipes in joists? I would have thought notching out the joists wouldn't this weaken them? or what other method would you guys use? thanks once again

 

[happyflyer]

i didnt think id get this many replies to my post, i know you guys are pros and hate the cr*p plastic. for me its fine i think

i was wondering about copper how would you run 22mm pipes in joists? I would have thought notching out the joists wouldn't this weaken them? or what other method would you guys use? thanks once again

They will be tripping over the plastic tube to help you. If you use copper you will undoubtedly need to use some 22 mm somewhere, you can notch the joist, most old house have 7" to 9" joist, don't go daft, try to plan your 22 mm runs going with the joist, let the force be with obi wan kenobi, infinity and beyond, you will need to know a few facts about how much heat 22 mm and 15 mm will carry to pipe size, I think I can find you some info if you need it, it might be on parchment.

 

[Keefy]

you see them at B&Q pondering in the bins, push fit bins, they never go near the flow solder bins, only for the proper plumbers, ask the assistant on the plumbing section he was a plumber in real life

And beats customers up.

 

[AWheating]

us pros like plastic pipe, but it has its limits and is less suitable in some situations and more suitable in others. plastic can be fitted by somebody who has little plumbing knowledge but in my experience it only gets fitted correctly and to a decent standard by a good plumber.

as for sizing pipework you normally find plastic has less flow rates compared to copper. the best person to ask for advice is your engineer tbh.

you can notch your joists, how deep depends on the joist, same with drilling holes in the middle for plastic. both methods will weaken the joist.
have a read through the building regulations to make sure you dont do anything dangerous, if in doubt get a professional in.

 

[dancinplumba]

Plastic all the way man 🙂

 

[pana37]

thanks guys for your advice, i used the same method at the old house however i notched the joists out and the fittings where a lot more ***bersome. i consider myself to be a very competent 'diyer'

i have drawn up a route now so will hopefully work out, where i want to the run the main run unfortunately the joists are going across🙁 so still swaying towards plastic stuff.

 

[Keefy]

thanks guys for your advice, i used the same method at the old house however i notched the joists out and the fittings where a lot more ***bersome. i consider myself to be a very competent 'diyer'

i have drawn up a route now so will hopefully work out, where i want to the run the main run unfortunately the joists are going across🙁 so still swaying towards plastic stuff.

Hope it all goes well, keep updating this thread with your progress as it's always nice to see how a job progresses.

 

[pana37]

Thanks
any advice on channelling and pipes in the wall?

Also was thinking of getting some modern/designer rads for gnd floor and standard ones upstairs any recommendations on makes?

 

[Best]

Copper may actually work out similar price to plastic as you need less fittings with copper & end feed copper fittings are cheap & good quality. Remember each plastic joint end requires a support inside the pipe & you are supposed to clip plastic pipes fully. If you can solder & bend copper well, then it is the job. Forget the "50" year warranty with plastic - there's no such thing, - only a limited warranty. Think uv rays, all that heat - especially excessive heat if it occurs & rodents! Copper is faultless on heating. All that said, if you want to do the plastic stuff & do it carefully, it might be around for long enough. Just seems a shame to go to all that bother to carefully fit second best! Make sure you fit the pipes near the sides of rooms & not in the middle of floor.

I often recall builders telling me they use plastic on all their jobs, where hidden. Then they said they don't use it in their own homes though....!

 

[AWheating]

i agree clipping/support is very important with plastic every 300mm is recommended by most plastic manufacturer's and its important to avoid any strain on the fittings. the new hep2o is about the same size as the old style stuff. Id use polyplumb or speedfit if it was me.

radiator choice is down to your own likes tbh. Just get the heat outputs correct and fit whatever floats your boat.

running pipes in the walls will depend on the wall tbh, what are they made from?

 

[happyflyer]

Copper may actually work out similar price to plastic as you need less fittings with copper & end feed copper fittings are cheap & good quality. Remember each plastic joint end requires a support inside the pipe & you are supposed to clip plastic pipes fully. If you can solder & bend copper well, then it is the job. Forget the "50" year warranty with plastic - there's no such thing, - only a limited warranty. Think uv rays, all that heat - especially excessive heat if it occurs & rodents! Copper is faultless on heating. All that said, if you want to do the plastic stuff & do it carefully, it might be around for long enough. Just seems a shame to go to all that bother to carefully fit second best! Make sure you fit the pipes near the sides of rooms & not in the middle of floor.

I often recall builders telling me they use plastic on all their jobs, where hidden. Then they said they don't use it in their own homes though....!

I could't have put it better myself, now I know why your stage name is BEST, you saved me typing, you must be an old sod like me, nice one Best.


Tony

 

[pana37]

Copper may actually work out similar price to plastic as you need less fittings with copper & end feed copper fittings are cheap & good quality. Remember each plastic joint end requires a support inside the pipe & you are supposed to clip plastic pipes fully. If you can solder & bend copper well, then it is the job. Forget the "50" year warranty with plastic - there's no such thing, - only a limited warranty. Think uv rays, all that heat - especially excessive heat if it occurs & rodents! Copper is faultless on heating. All that said, if you want to do the plastic stuff & do it carefully, it might be around for long enough. Just seems a shame to go to all that bother to carefully fit second best! Make sure you fit the pipes near the sides of rooms & not in the middle of floor.

I often recall builders telling me they use plastic on all their jobs, where hidden. Then they said they don't use it in their own homes though....!

Soldering is not my strong point tried it before with flame and those things you clamp near the fittings, shame really. Also you mention go near the edge which I will do in some of the run, what's the reason behind this? Thanks again

 

[pana37]

i agree clipping/support is very important with plastic every 300mm is recommended by most plastic manufacturer's and its important to avoid any strain on the fittings. the new hep2o is about the same size as the old style stuff. Id use polyplumb or speedfit if it was me.

radiator choice is down to your own likes tbh. Just get the heat outputs correct and fit whatever floats your boat.

running pipes in the walls will depend on the wall tbh, what are they made from?

Its a 70's build house so solid breeze block I guess, it's not stud that's for sure.