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Problems after power flush

View the thread, titled "Problems after power flush" which is posted in UK Plumbers Forums on UK Plumbers Forums.

As ask'd B4 have you check'd the filter in the left hand hydro block, diverter valve & motor ? has this other engineer added this other chemical yet ? I still think this is where the problem could be !
 
Update - in the words of my tenant;

"The previous engineer did all the right things with regards to the power flush and all the other bits but he wouldn't go down the route of replacing the rads just yet, that would be an absolute last resort. He uses a chemical which breaks down the bits in the system and also acts as an inhibitor to stop any corrosion. It doesn't need flushing out the chemical stays in the system for about 5 years. He said if the rads weren't leaking after the power flush then there probably isn't anything wrong with them."

Does this sound about right?
There aren't any chemicals that I'm aware of that act as an inhibitor and a cleanser. These are two different chemicals. You can't leave cleanser in for five years! You have to use system cleanser( the stuff that breaks down the crud) flush it out and then add inhibitor. So no it doesn't sound right. At the risk of repeating myself get a gas safe engineer on your boiler, it's illegal to do it yourself.
 
Update - in the words of my tenant;

"The previous engineer did all the right things with regards to the power flush and all the other bits but he wouldn't go down the route of replacing the rads just yet, that would be an absolute last resort. He uses a chemical which breaks down the bits in the system and also acts as an inhibitor to stop any corrosion. It doesn't need flushing out the chemical stays in the system for about 5 years. He said if the rads weren't leaking after the power flush then there probably isn't anything wrong with them."

Does this sound about right?

I thought it was a problem with the heat exchanger? Is it that the radiators are blocked instead? I'm confused now maybe I missed an important post...
 
All I know is, after the power flush, the system lasted 2 months before it blocked up with tiny shards of metal. Was told the hex was blocked, and the magnetic filter had an inch of crap on it. Engineer said rads had failed, but I didn't believe that at all.
 
Spoke with engineer. He said there are many possible ways to cure the crap in the system, but he recommends using Calchem 3 in 1, which should break down everything.
 
what is classed as a power flush because alot of GSE / plumbers call it a power flush but they dont use a machine to remove the dirt, how long was the boy there for powerflushing, i have done a few powerflushes and i have never seen inch thick of muck in any system i have done after it had been cleaned, and its a new boiler. even been back to one that been done over 15 months ago and its still clear as the day i left it.

Really dont think its the HEX as everyone has stated, try find a other gse to have a look no harm getting a further quote

thanks
 
Surely power flushing requires a " power flusher" I have power flushed a system properly before only to return to the job a week later with an inch of muck on the filter and a blocked hw plate hx. And also a blocked primary flow sensor. It was a baxi 105 he. It goes to show there are no fixed rules to power flushing, and removing sludge from a system is not an exact science. I have a fernox equipment and used fernox chemicals, wich were in for five hours.
 
I have seen rads on a sealed system start to corrode after less than 5 years with no chemical treatment! Thing with a powerflush is they pull all the crap through the boiler and if the hex is of small diameter it gets stuck! IMO manually flushing the rads is far better than any powerflush. All that needs to happen now is the system needs draining and the filter needs cleaning, then it needs filling back up and draining again but leave filling loop open until the water starts to run clear, failing that i'd think about disconnecting the heating pipes to the boiler and getting a wet vac on it to try and pull the crap out. Once it has been cleared i'd recommend manually flushing all the rads then leaving a sludge remover in the system for a few days then flush again and leave filling loop open to remove all the sludge removing chemical then fill back up with some inhibitor. BTW the power flush clearly hasn't worked as the whole point is to have a clean system when completed.

Here you go, has ive also said the heating is not working because of something else other than a blocked hex, possibly a filter blocked or faulty diverter as someone else has already mentioned. You need to get a decent gse to sort it.
 
Has Iv'e already mentioned earler, B4 you go spending out loads of cash check out the diverter valve filter on left hand side of boiler, and make sure that Diverter valve motor is working, I can-not see it being a prob with Heat Ex as boiler is working just a problen with heating side, So start from boiler And check that filter first !!
:6:
 
There aren't any chemicals that I'm aware of that act as an inhibitor and a cleanser. These are two different chemicals. You can't leave cleanser in for five years! You have to use system cleanser( the stuff that breaks down the crud) flush it out and then add inhibitor. So no it doesn't sound right. At the risk of repeating myself get a gas safe engineer on your boiler, it's illegal to do it yourself.

There is apparently a chemical, it breaks down the sludge and its described on the box as the sugar cube effect, its called something 'cal', it doesn't remove sludge obviously but keeps it moving. Oh and its an inhibitor as well

Likend to a sugar cube, breaks down in your tea but you still know its there.
 
Oh well, the latest attempt to fix the boiler with chemicals has failed, hot water stopping and starting, more crud attached to the magnet. Where can I go from here?
 
post in the looking for a plumber section stating you general area and there may be someone on here who can help you out.
 
Just got hold of the engineer, he's going to clean everything out and go from there again. My tenant is leaving soon - as soon as he does I'm goining to drain the system, take the rads off the wall and flush them out, then top-up what needs cleaning in the boiler.
 
Oh the joys. After spending two hours cleaning out the hex, it lasted two days before the hot water starting going cold again. Cannot believe the amount of crap that is in the system! Will now replace the hex and if that doesn't work, I'm going to blow the house up.
 
tell you someone has not powerflushed the system correct you not of had so many problems
 
If your system was flushed in the correct way 95 percent of magnite sludge would have been removed. Fitting a magnaclean with debris filtration on the return to the boiler would have prevented a blockage happening. (or other make) if your plumber is not interested in coming back he obviously dont care to much and probally didnt flush it properly. Ive been to loads like these and reflushed them without a problem and left them working. Who ever flushes it needs to conect the powerflush machine too the heart of the system ( pump or after cutting in magnaclean) hot flush it for an hour. Then clear out each rad independantly. Hope this helps liam LF Heating and Plumbing
 

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