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Problems after power flush

View the thread, titled "Problems after power flush" which is posted in UK Plumbers Forums on UK Plumbers Forums.

I have seen rads on a sealed system start to corrode after less than 5 years with no chemical treatment! Thing with a powerflush is they pull all the crap through the boiler and if the hex is of small diameter it gets stuck! IMO manually flushing the rads is far better than any powerflush. All that needs to happen now is the system needs draining and the filter needs cleaning, then it needs filling back up and draining again but leave filling loop open until the water starts to run clear, failing that i'd think about disconnecting the heating pipes to the boiler and getting a wet vac on it to try and pull the crap out. Once it has been cleared i'd recommend manually flushing all the rads then leaving a sludge remover in the system for a few days then flush again and leave filling loop open to remove all the sludge removing chemical then fill back up with some inhibitor. BTW the power flush clearly hasn't worked as the whole point is to have a clean system when completed.

Here you go, has ive also said the heating is not working because of something else other than a blocked hex, possibly a filter blocked or faulty diverter as someone else has already mentioned. You need to get a decent gse to sort it.
 
Has Iv'e already mentioned earler, B4 you go spending out loads of cash check out the diverter valve filter on left hand side of boiler, and make sure that Diverter valve motor is working, I can-not see it being a prob with Heat Ex as boiler is working just a problen with heating side, So start from boiler And check that filter first !!
:6:
 
There aren't any chemicals that I'm aware of that act as an inhibitor and a cleanser. These are two different chemicals. You can't leave cleanser in for five years! You have to use system cleanser( the stuff that breaks down the crud) flush it out and then add inhibitor. So no it doesn't sound right. At the risk of repeating myself get a gas safe engineer on your boiler, it's illegal to do it yourself.

There is apparently a chemical, it breaks down the sludge and its described on the box as the sugar cube effect, its called something 'cal', it doesn't remove sludge obviously but keeps it moving. Oh and its an inhibitor as well

Likend to a sugar cube, breaks down in your tea but you still know its there.
 
Oh well, the latest attempt to fix the boiler with chemicals has failed, hot water stopping and starting, more crud attached to the magnet. Where can I go from here?
 
post in the looking for a plumber section stating you general area and there may be someone on here who can help you out.
 
Just got hold of the engineer, he's going to clean everything out and go from there again. My tenant is leaving soon - as soon as he does I'm goining to drain the system, take the rads off the wall and flush them out, then top-up what needs cleaning in the boiler.
 
Oh the joys. After spending two hours cleaning out the hex, it lasted two days before the hot water starting going cold again. Cannot believe the amount of crap that is in the system! Will now replace the hex and if that doesn't work, I'm going to blow the house up.
 
tell you someone has not powerflushed the system correct you not of had so many problems
 
If your system was flushed in the correct way 95 percent of magnite sludge would have been removed. Fitting a magnaclean with debris filtration on the return to the boiler would have prevented a blockage happening. (or other make) if your plumber is not interested in coming back he obviously dont care to much and probally didnt flush it properly. Ive been to loads like these and reflushed them without a problem and left them working. Who ever flushes it needs to conect the powerflush machine too the heart of the system ( pump or after cutting in magnaclean) hot flush it for an hour. Then clear out each rad independantly. Hope this helps liam LF Heating and Plumbing
 

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