Replacing radiators and valves on a 10mm system

[ziggy]

Folks,

Replacing a load of old radiators, leaky valves, etc on a 10mm copper sealed system. Got a good deal on pairs of TRVs & lockshields that were dual use 15mm/10mm with the 10mm pipework i have needing the reducers that were included.

Looking at the old pipework, it looks like when i remove the old olives it is not going to be in good shape at the business end as a lot of the old valves had been overtightened in an attempt to stop leaks and they were using 15mm reducers also.

Was thinking of cutting the 10mm pipework just below the olive and using a solder ring 10mm to 15mm fitting converter that will leave me with a nice bit of 15mm pipe to go straight into the valve without having to use the supplied reducers. The converters are cheap as chips and will take no time to fit and will give me back the small amount of length i have cut off, so on surface seems a good way of getting around any pinched 10mm i uncover.

Has anyone done this before or can think of any reasons why not to do it this way.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

depends if your 10-15mm reducers are long enough (eg fit all the way in and still showing and not on the rounded bit)

 

[plumben]

You can get extended 10-15mm reducers for this,

But yes your plan should work just fine, you'll probably have some play in the pipes aswell

 

[bob the plumber]

In the past when I've come across this problem I've wrapped the 10mm in ptfe tight so to pack out where the olive has crushed the pipe. In all the years I've been doing that its worked every time,. Sealed systems also so under a lot more pressure its always worked for me. If the pipes really battered I tend to cut the 10mm low down and solder a coupling and pipe then push the pipe coupling under the floor so you can't see it then cut it to the length that you need to insert into valve. I find I have more problems using long tailed reducers and it doesn't look as neat

 

[gassafe]

In the past when I've come across this problem I've wrapped the 10mm in ptfe tight so to pack out where the olive has crushed the pipe. In all the years I've been doing that its worked every time,. Sealed systems also so under a lot more pressure its always worked for me. If the pipes really battered I tend to cut the 10mm low down and solder a coupling and pipe then push the pipe coupling under the floor so you can't see it then cut it to the length that you need to insert into valve. I find I have more problems using long tailed reducers and it doesn't look as neat

How do you know that coupling you just soldered is not leaking under the floor on fill up 😉

I prefer a long tail reducer! Those brass reducers work, but leak if knocked or undone awhile later I don't like to re-assemble them!

 

[ziggy]

Thanks for the replies folks, think I will give that a go using the reducers.

 

[bob the plumber]

Jesus wept you obviously don't have much confidence in your soldering ability
I can't remember the last time I had a leak on an end feed

 

[stevetheplumber]

doesnt matter if the shoulder of the reducer is inside ive done it loads of times and it holds joint is made at the front of the ring

 

[gassafe]

Jesus wept �� you obviously don't have much confidence in your soldering ability ��
I can't remember the last time I had a leak on an end feed ��

��

Haha, nothing wrong my soldering 😛 I just like to check things... Especially on microbore horrible stuff!

 

[bob the plumber]

Each to there own! I'll let you know if I have one come through a ceiling haha

 

[gassafe]

Plus if you cut it close to the floor you risk the pipe dropping through the floor...

Burning the carpet... Or kinking the 10mm when you force it down... Take it easy out there bob 😉