- May 23, 2015
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- Heating Engineer (Has GSR)
Need to repair an oil line that’s underground (digger/ old oil line that’s being disused) now I know it’s not the best but what’s the best practice eg flared and denso
Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws
- Thread starter ShaunCorbs
- Start date
How deep?
Standard compression with pipe inserts will do, unless you have a flaring tool.
Regs state you need permanent access to an underground joint, so should be in a pit with lift off lid.
Standard compression with pipe inserts will do, unless you have a flaring tool.
Regs state you need permanent access to an underground joint, so should be in a pit with lift off lid.
450mm deep trench. 40mm of compacted sand as base, run pipe and a further 40mm of sand on top. Builders grade polythene above sand. Then backfill with soil and position an oil line marking tape 150mm below the surface.
Note. Joints underground should be avoided, permanent access must be provided to any and all joints made.
Compression with inserts is acceptable but many argue flared is the way, its swings and roundabouts, both are acceptable and if done right never a concern.
Note. Joints underground should be avoided, permanent access must be provided to any and all joints made.
Compression with inserts is acceptable but many argue flared is the way, its swings and roundabouts, both are acceptable and if done right never a concern.
- May 23, 2015
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- Heating Engineer (Has GSR)
around 300-350mm deep
no way of doing it without an inspection? As it’s in a flower bed / going to be
Can only state the regs, reality is often different 😉
As Simon says we can only inform you to what the regulations require my friend. Any new installation or remedial work requires permanent access to all joints that are sub ground and installed to how I said above. Admittedly this is not what you want to hear but it is what it is.
I don't know how much oil work you do, or how much you know but you could phone up OFTEC and for £5 plus posting you can buy their pocket guide that has all this information and a whole lot more.
It is Simon yes. I'm not currently OFTEC registered (personally I'm in two mind about that) but this pocket guide is well worth the few quid it costs. Yes buying the book set gives a lot more information but you spend £100 on books now and in two months time some idiot who sits behind a desk with no hands on experience has changed all the regulations again and the books are useless. £5 every time regs change is worth it.
The problem with OFTEC is it's not policed like gas is. They'll rush anyone through a week long course with a guaranteed pass. There lies one problem, you get some halfwit who's done this course and instantly believes he knows everything, causing more problems than remedies on his first breakdown call. Also you notify OFTEC of bad workmanship by another party and they don't care, nothing ever comes from them.
I know of a lot of guys who are in two minds like me. I know I don't legally have to be OFTEC to repair an oil fired appliance, as long as I know current regs and stay up to date with them then I'm free to attend but then I've been trained by some very good guys, with decades of experience and I know what I'm on about.
I know of a lot of guys who are in two minds like me. I know I don't legally have to be OFTEC to repair an oil fired appliance, as long as I know current regs and stay up to date with them then I'm free to attend but then I've been trained by some very good guys, with decades of experience and I know what I'm on about.
If you do use plastic, nothing wrong with that especially if it's a particularly long run but you should not have plastic oil lines above ground. You need to change to copper before coming up above the surface which means access chambers where you make the transition as no joints should be buried.
Actually, one caveat here, this is the local regulations where I reside as the whole island has long been designated as a water catchment area. Also must be bunded/over a catch-pit if the tank is within 10 miles of the sea (which is literally everywhere on the island). This means all tanks must be bunded/or over a 110% capacity catch-pit. Top outlet tanks must also be fitted with an anti-syphon device fitted within the bund as well. We tend to follow the UK regs on most things but it is our Water Board who have the final say on all things oil storage and pipeline. The more I write the more I realise it may be quite different in the UK.
Do the UK regs state the same i.e. no plastic oil lines above ground or is it acceptable in areas of the UK that are not water catchment areas or near the sea?
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No, but tanks have to comply with strict regulations regarding distances from boundaries and openings and vegetation, the distance the hard base must extend beyond the footprint of the tank, proximity to eaves spaces. These are all to do with fire prevention.
I was just asking if the pipe you mentioned was fire resistant. Not to criticise but out of interest as I have not heard of Qual-oil pipe before.
SJB I am like yourself I think oftec is a joke.j No experience and after a week you walk away oftec registered an absolute disgrace.Nobody fails.I helped a chimney sweep at a lockout a week ago.In his own word's he explained that he gets enough work servicing so does not do break downs.He couldn't install/wire a eph combipack 4 and when i first met him after he got oftec registered he didn't know what the brass thing was protruding from the top of the boiler..a.a.v.
the amount of times i hear make sure he is oftec registered...its the bigest joke out.The window cleaner and the icecream van man can become oftec registered if he has the money.Its honestly criminal.Plus its helped damage the trade.
the amount of times i hear make sure he is oftec registered...its the bigest joke out.The window cleaner and the icecream van man can become oftec registered if he has the money.Its honestly criminal.Plus its helped damage the trade.
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