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Jul 13, 2019
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hi we have an issue with our heating and water system . new flow switch and new pump , system bled , all done by a professional but still no hot water or heating. when the plumber left yesterday we had boiling radiators and some hot water although the heating was switched off. my suspicion is diverter valve but unsure as to why nothing is working again now. boiler tries to kick in but says FD error (flow)

would be really happy for some advice as we have been 4 weeks without hot water no and the Mrs isn't happy.

thanks in advance
John
 
Last suggestion is to shut pump isolation valves, remove pump, crack open pump discharge valve for a few minutes and get a back flow and ditto with pump suction valve, also pour some water through pump ports to prove clear, don't throw away your other pump either just in case the new one has been affected by any magnetite in the dirty water.

I've give up its getting too much for us. I know I keep saying it lol.

The 1st plumber took our new pump.
 
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Very good. A bit academic now but I introduced some air into my own pump and then put in on speed 3, the power stayed at 27W (same as yours) and on speed 2, 11W, (again same as yours), I then put it back to speed 3 at 27W and couldn't get it above this despite venting the pump but when I returned to to speed 2 and again vented it (10 min vent) it settled at 24W on speed 2, so it would seem that these pumps are quite sensitive to any air ingress when running on full speed, I have now changed back to my normal setting of PP 4.0M running at its normal power of 17/18W.
I could hear some gushing sounds when the pump was on its 10 minute vent cycle.
 
It would be nice to be be able to confirm to your plumber on Fri if you think the problem is air or blockage related so in view my own findings you might give it one more shot if pump is still on the plugtop. With 3 way valve open on manual start the pump and slowly turn the rotary knob anticlockwise until you get a flashing 4M , observe the power, if only - 8W carry out a pump purge and observe the power again, if 15/18w then the pump is circulating - 12/14 LPM, if still 8W unplug/plug in pump a few times at say 10 sec intervals....see what happens,.
 
Hopefully this shows it ok
 

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Its the manual start led thats illuminated, don't know what the 69 or 6.9 means but the red dot shows a fault condition I presume, the fault codes in my manual are prefixed with a E ie E21 etc.
I hope that red light isn't because of pump blocking/o/load etc.
I see you have it selected to speed 3 again.
I just did that venting on mine at its normal 4M setting and when it finished the power is now 14W (boiler off) which is ~ 8 LPM, its normally 17/18W., so if you cant get it to 14W or > then I think you will have to abandon ship.
 
Progress update, plumbers have been today, 3.5 hours and looks like we are functional. It looks like it was air. They have simplified the pipework in the airing cupboard. Still sounds like a bit of air in the pipework though. Pump is running between 31 and 33w.
 
Progress update, plumbers have been today, 3.5 hours and looks like we are functional. It looks like it was air. They have simplified the pipework in the airing cupboard. Still sounds like a bit of air in the pipework though. Pump is running between 31 and 33w.

That's great news JP, that airing cupboard is well named. You should be circulating ~ 10/12 LPM if on speed 3. (6M)
 

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