Hi all just picking your brains 2 pumps with flow rates of 3.8 and 5.7 which is the more powerful, also can you fit a commercial pump into a domestic system?
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You are pumping practically NIL as you can see from the pump curve that the flowrate at 5.9M is 0.Hi all well what I did was shut off all the upstairs rads so just the downstairs rad were open, set the pump to constant curve @100% operating mode @Max estimated head was 5.9 m and the speed was 5295.
The sitting room rad (which is the new big one) got hot but I could not balance it, the kitchen one which was cold or just barely warm was heating up but did not get hot, the entrance rad was still cold, my conclustion is either the pump cannot push the water round the system (all the above rads are on dead legs) or there is a blockage or trapped air in the return legs, which all I can do is bleed the return legs (not the rads) and see if it makes any difference, if it does not then the only solution is to find a much more powerful pump, if anyone can tell me what would happen if I fitted a commercial pump, of which I have the specs :- UP UPS 14m3/h 13m head pmax 10bar
UPS 25-80 :- 8.5m3/h 7mhead
Hi well interesting results:- I turned off the rad in the sitting room (which is 2400mm x 600mm double panel) and left the kitchen one open and left the entrance rad open, the entrance rad started to get hot, the kitchen started to get hotter than before so turned that one off and the entrance rad got hotter, which means to me there is no airlocks, here's some info on the pipe work the entrance is on 10mm pipework the kitchen is on 8mm pipe work, the sitting room is on 15mm pipe work. Being a disabled pensioner (72) I am at my time of life not able to rip out the dead legs and increase the size of the pipe work, I could shut off the kitchen rad as the kitchen is open to the sitting room so the sitting room rad would warm up the kitchen, I could also put TRV's on the bathroom towel rails as they can get pretty hot and the room stat is in the sitting room ( a data term box) which means that when the bedrooms and the bathroom reached the desired temp they would close down resulting in an increased flow to the down stairs dead legs but probably not enough to heat up all the downstairs rads. As I have always maintained the pumps I selected to run my system are not suitable ( silly me) what do you think about using one of the commercial pumps that I listed, i can vividly remember years ago I did put a big pump in the system ( i suppose I could find out which one but it would take me a long time) I even had to manufacture a plate with rubber mountings for the vibration noise and special connection hoses to the system) it worked ok, that's all I can say, anyone want to buy a Grundfos Alpha 3b 15 50/60 bought 4 months ago and has only just started to be used (no heating over the summer months)Do the test again but shut all but one rad eg one problem one does that get hot ?
You are pumping practically NIL as you can see from the pump curve that the flowrate at 5.9M is 0.
The pump power is 22/23kw, you should see this displayed and also the flowrate showing 0 M3/hr, so you might note these.
Also just shut the pump outlet valve for 10 secs or so with it running and the above numbers 5.9M/22kw/0.0M3/hr should remain the same.
OK, (I'm getting on a good bit more than you).
Just put or leave the pump in CC (constant curve) mode at 100% which is the highest possible setting that will give the greatest circulation.
Leave what ever rads you have open to the circuit now and just start the boiler/pump and note the pump head in (meters) M, the flowrate in M3/hr and the most important one of all the power output in (watts) W. and then just shut the pump outlet valve for say 5 secs (boiler/pump running) and just note the above readings again, re open the pump outlet valve and if desired then shut down the boiler/pump. You may wish to post the first set of readings before doing the closed valve test.
Hi thanks John I get tired very easily these days with the problems associated with me being diabetic and problems with my knees and arms, I never thought that having arthritis in my arms would feel like I had bad toothache but it does with me been to the dentist and he pointed this out to me, will talk with you tomorrow if that is ok with you, got to get this sorted out before the cold weather sets in as this is another problem with being diabetic I cannot stand the cold, never mind.OK, (I'm getting on a good bit more than you).
Just put or leave the pump in CC (constant curve) mode at 100% which is the highest possible setting that will give the greatest circulation.
Leave what ever rads you have open to the circuit now and just start the boiler/pump and note the pump head in (meters) M, the flowrate in M3/hr and the most important one of all the power output in (watts) W. and then just shut the pump outlet valve for say 5 secs (boiler/pump running) and just note the above readings again, re open the pump outlet valve and if desired then shut down the boiler/pump. You may wish to post the first set of readings before doing the closed valve test.
Hi thanks John I get tired very easily these days with the problems associated with me being diabetic and problems with my knees and arms, I never thought that having arthritis in my arms would feel like I had bad toothache but it does with me been to the dentist and he pointed this out to me, will talk with you tomorrow if that is ok with you, got to get this sorted out before the cold weather sets in as this is another problem with being diabetic I cannot stand the cold, never mind.
Yes John exactly the same, I had the same query how come the downstairs big radiator (upstairs closed) was heating up with a flow rate of 0.0m3/h dos'nt seem possible, the system is a sealed fully pumped "Y" planJust to be clear
Pump definitely in CC3 mode and results with the pump outlet open were the same as with it closed, above, ie, 5.9M, flow rate 0.0m3/h, power output 22watts??, extraordinary as you are getting some circulation through the rads.
Also check that the pump inlet valve is fully open.
Just confirm the above please and I will have another look through the pump manual
yes I have, another thing could my problems be associated with the outlet valve, why I say that is because the pump has the common connections on it but I have a gate valve just above it and I have been using that to close off the outlet and I have had problems with that type of gate valve before where the brass gate dose not fully open or fully close but sticks in one position.Have you still got the Alpha 2 pump?
Do you think that if I flushed out the whole system with a good cleaner it might do the trick?Doesn't seem possible, can you change to constant pressure mode CP3 which is a constant 4.5M, if not pumping in this mode then the power will read only 15W.
I did come across here sometime where a pump was displaying all the above symptoms but when the head was removed it was full of soft sludge with the impeller vanes choked, vanes can be cleaned with a tie wrap.
If its still not pumping on CP3, I would be inclined to isolate the pump and remove its head (2 or 4 stud bolts) complete with impeller and inspect it, then flush pump body ports alernatively tfrom he inlet and outlet valves, you will have to top up the boiler afterwards.
OR, if you still have the Alpha 2, simply install that and see will it pump, why did you replace it with the Alpha 3 as it has exactly the same performance but not the same amount of bells and whistles
If this pump was installed originally then you can look at this first for any signs of sludge inside, etc.
i did notice you mentioned CP3, the pump was set in constant curve, so I reset it to CP3 closed the valve and the pump stopped, reopened it and the pump reset itself to constant curve, i have been using my wifes new phone but it keeps losing the connection with the pump and is very hard to reconnectDoesn't seem possible, can you change to constant pressure mode CP3 which is a constant 4.5M, if not pumping in this mode then the power will read only 15W.
I did come across here sometime where a pump was displaying all the above symptoms but when the head was removed it was full of soft sludge with the impeller vanes choked, vanes can be cleaned with a tie wrap.
If its still not pumping on CP3, I would be inclined to isolate the pump and remove its head (2 or 4 stud bolts) complete with impeller and inspect it, then flush pump body ports alernatively tfrom he inlet and outlet valves, you will have to top up the boiler afterwards.
OR, if you still have the Alpha 2, simply install that and see will it pump, why did you replace it with the Alpha 3 as it has exactly the same performance but not the same amount of bells and whistles
If this pump was installed originally then you can look at this first for any signs of sludge inside, etc.
Yes, a prime suspect, its quite possibly closed now so if the threads arn,t stripped you should get 3 to 5 full turns anticlockwise from it , there's always a 1/2 to 3/4 of free play before they start to open or close.yes I have, another thing could my problems be associated with the outlet valve, why I say that is because the pump has the common connections on it but I have a gate valve just above it and I have been using that to close off the outlet and I have had problems with that type of gate valve before where the brass gate dose not fully open or fully close but sticks in one position.
Do you think that if I flushed out the whole system with a good cleaner it might do the trick?
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