Tiny CH Pipes.

[WaterTight]

Not sure what size they are. Seen them once or twice. Friend's house has them feeding all rads. A decorator put a rad back on and the pipe bent double. What's the point/benefit of them?

 

[PlumbBobBob]

they will be either 8mm or 10mm the point of them is that they were easy to install.

 

[fuzzy]

normally 10mm..

 

[Billy Bob Bob]

have seen a lot of 8mm used cant take a knock

 

[Dotty]

Daren't look at 'em and they start leaking!

 

[WaterTight]

So if you came across a rad where two 10mm pipes pop straight out of solid floor and tiled floor that they don't want digging up... and one pipe is bent too badly for anything to pass through it, there's no pipe to play with and the nearest rad to tee off is f'ing miles away and they say the rad doesn't work since it was bent...what would you suggest?

Give up I'm guessing. Can you squeeze the pipes back into shape with grips or something?

 

[Billy Bob Bob]

i would suggest they start looking for tiles cant you get a drop to it? is it all under floor?

 

[dontknowitall]

I'd be careful how you go. If you remove the radiator and something goes wrong, they might get you to replace everything at your expense. Bending the pipes back into shape probably won't work and might end you in more trouble, e.g. a hole in the pipe if you touch it. Only way, in my opinion, is digging the appropriate floor tile(s) up.

 

[Plumbstar Tom]

unless you can carefully cut the pipe and pop a coupler on like this for example

Conex Push Fit 270 Straight Coupler 10mm - NoLinkingToThis, Where the Trade Buys

But again if it goes wrong you are digging up the floor

They use 10mm copper as its cheaper, lighter and can be bent easily and accuratley with simple hand benders rather thab the big jobbies for 15mm and 22mm copper

 

[kay-jay]

is the rad on a stud wall? can you maybe get access from the adjoining room from beneath the floor boards. if possible this will prevent the need to rip up tiling.

KJ

 

[Bernie2]

Hmm!

10-8mm is easier to install and can be threaded through joists like the lady job "Sparks" do with their cable .

I also think that at one time they thought the less water in a system the less fuel you used to heat it so they where more economic and cheaper to run.
The practical side though, they seemed to block up with the likes of magnetite, you have probably seen how thick it can get in a 15mm system imagine it in a 8 -10mm system.

Also air locks where hard to remove.

The actual installation also allowed for manifolds to be fitted with local control, although you can do the same with 15mm.

Another problem is that with small pipes you need a high head pump to push it through the added resistance and so increasing water speed and erosion.

Incidentally mini bore is the same as micro bore.

Its just that one company, I think it was Yorkshire who made 8 - 10mm fittings and pipe referred to the sizes as micro bore and another company called it mini bore.

 

[charliejamesuk]

A newish housing development near me has all the basins done in 8 or 10mm plastic (hot & cold). The fittings they use for elbows, couplings, etc appear to be a white/grey push fit fitting.

Anyone know what I'm on about? I'll try and take a snap next time..

 

[Plumbstar Tom]

as in the domestic water is in 8 - 10 mm plastic pipe work?

If so thats not the norm

 

[ferret]

as in the domestic water is in 8 - 10 mm plastic pipe work?

If so thats not the norm

Not the norm but much better if they are installing combi,s its about time we started installing as the rest of europe , it will work a lot better , I did this in a 5 bed house I built back in 1990 and it was excellant , mind you it was copper not plastic.

 

[Toddyplumb]

Agree with ferret there we should be looking at this for mains pressure systems . Ive done it a few times on basins and WC,s.
Think of the water you would save if you ran 10mm pipes from a central point at the cylinder or combi to basins . And maybe 15mm for bath.