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Oct 17, 2017
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200/210 or 250l indirect unvented cylinder...

Pros and cons of both please guys, whats the thinking??
Better to go bigger, or are there other considerations to be thought of....?
 
I have 170l on HW Priority and well, it's not enough (Cylinder was existing in house when we bought). 2 People at 20lpm showers. It reheats rapid (Maybe like 10 minutes), but personally if you've got the physical room i'd go with a minimum of 250l. Especially in a 4 bed house.

You don't need fancy controls. You can do it quite simply with a relay that costs £15.
 
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How many bathrooms?

If 1, another option is to put in a plate heat exchange and go instantaneous with no store of hot water...
 
I have 170l on HW Priority and well, it's not enough (Cylinder was existing in house when we bought). 2 People at 20lpm showers. It reheats rapid (Maybe like 10 minutes), but personally if you've got the physical room i'd go with a minimum of 250l. Especially in a 4 bed house.

You don't need fancy controls. You can do it quite simply with a relay that costs £15.
Intetesting, im listening....
🤪
 
I often spec for 'Gledhill platinum stainless indirect' cylinders. I rate them and they have the floating baffle that eliminates need for expansion vessel and adds a decent amount of accumulation that may help with your 'pressure' issues
 
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No go for the plate heat exchanger with your current sized boiler.
330i is a rebadged Glowmorm boiler so she's getting on a bit now probably over ten years or more but if well maintained and serviced I'd connect to a unvented cylinder or you may want to consider a boiler upgrade at the same time , but as Timmy has said not suitable for a plate heat install as it is .
 

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330i is a rebadged Glowmorm boiler so she's getting on a bit now probably over ten years or more but if well maintained and serviced I'd connect to a unvented cylinder or you may want to consider a boiler upgrade at the same time , but as Timmy has said not suitable for a plate heat install as it is .
Yeah, thats the one, it still works and gives us heat! Its bastard expensive to run mind...
Im not against upgrading it, but i need to justify the cost against the working unit tbh...

Water softners a thing to look at....? Whats the best thing without spending a million bucks....😫
 
Yeah, thats the one, it still works and gives us heat! Its bastard expensive to run mind...
Im not against upgrading it, but i need to justify the cost against the working unit tbh...

Water softners a thing to look at....? Whats the best thing without spending a million bucks....😫
Here's one I recommend around £500 . Kop
 

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Lost how mate? A new boiler and unvented cylinder with the boiler wired to a external weather sensor , I've recommended a water softener above . Kop
SO, at present im on a y plan, am i right in thinking, with an unvented a cylinder, it would be best to change over to an s plan, with the two valves close to the boiler? And if so, do i require an extra 5 or 6 core wire to link up new valves,??
If the y plan stays, i assume the new valve just goes near the cylinder somewhere and gets wired to the control centre....

Just want to try and do half a job! But do it right once!
New boiler is a bit costly at present...
 
SO, at present im on a y plan, am i right in thinking, with an unvented a cylinder, it would be best to change over to an s plan, with the two valves close to the boiler?
Weather compensation, if that's what you are still considering (I've lost track), is incompatible with standard S-plan with a cylinder as one zone because most of the time the CH water is below the 65°C minimum needed to heat the cylinder.
 
Various ways to do it but here's the Ideal wiring diagram for their heat only boiler and unvented cylinder with a outdoor sensor installed .Kop
 

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SO, at present im on a y plan, am i right in thinking, with an unvented a cylinder, it would be best to change over to an s plan, with the two valves close to the boiler? And if so, do i require an extra 5 or 6 core wire to link up new valves,??
If the y plan stays, i assume the new valve just goes near the cylinder somewhere and gets wired to the control centre....

Just want to try and do half a job! But do it right once!
New boiler is a bit costly at present...
5 core and basically yes I'd change the 3 port to two or even 3 - 2 ports zone valves does your property need to be as warm upstairs as it does downstairs?
 

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