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Looks nice and compact, id not seen these....wired for priority hot water...is this just a change in the control box wiring??
4 bedroom, maybe will at somepoint, yes, both shower, and usually after each other, probably spend way more than 7 mins at a time tbh!
Valid points taken on board...
I see. Thanks for the advice, how would i tell if my boiler is able to be set up for priority hot water?
That should be enough. Whether it is or not depends on details of usage patterns that only you know, e.g. how many people you have in the house needing showers of what duration and what flow rate and how the demand is distributed over the day.
1 bath, 1 ensuite, maybe a 2nd ensuite at some point...
No go for the plate heat exchanger with your current sized boiler.
330i is a rebadged Glowmorm boiler so she's getting on a bit now probably over ten years or more but if well maintained and serviced I'd connect to a unvented cylinder or you may want to consider a boiler upgrade at the same time , but as Timmy has said not suitable for a plate heat install as it is .
Yeah, thats the one, it still works and gives us heat! Its bastard expensive to run mind...
Here's one I recommend around £500 . Kop
Lost how mate? A new boiler and unvented cylinder with the boiler wired to a external weather sensor , I've recommended a water softener above . Kop
SO, at present im on a y plan, am i right in thinking, with an unvented a cylinder, it would be best to change over to an s plan, with the two valves close to the boiler? And if so, do i require an extra 5 or 6 core wire to link up new valves,??
Weather compensation, if that's what you are still considering (I've lost track), is incompatible with standard S-plan with a cylinder as one zone because most of the time the CH water is below the 65°C minimum needed to heat the cylinder.
5 core and basically yes I'd change the 3 port to two or even 3 - 2 ports zone valves does your property need to be as warm upstairs as it does downstairs?
Big bungalow? Still applies bedrooms and living areas can be split up all these little things add up to more control over your heating and savings on energy, the one big thing to remember is insulation 350 mm in your loft space is now the norm walls , floors I'd do the lot if I could in reality you probably can't 🙂 but just do what you can.
4 bed, yeah, i suppose its big by todays standards, 80s...so insultaion is poor at least...on a hill to, so we catch the easterly blows!
Going off what you want, yes, plenty. I did say it needs assessing by the installer and as @Chuck pointed out, only you know what you use and what you tell the installer you use.
I just re-read this. I first read it as no more than 7 minutes at a time. Apologies, how long are you in there? 7 minutes is a long shower in my book. If it's going to be over 10-12 min each one after another, go bigger.
No idea! Ive never timed it tbh!!
Agreed. Alternatively, if that doesn't work, try the cylinder manufacturer's website. They'll usually list several 'approved installers' for your area. They'll have done the manufacturer's product-specific training and you may get a longer warranty if you use them.
Is that INC VAT and you supplying all the materials and sourcing them? Or they sorting materials too.
Thats purely the labour content.inc vat. I have the cylinder, they say to supply pipe and fittings. Plus 1 zone valve.
3 days for 1 man?
Yeah, 360 a day, what is a plumbers day??
I see. Wasnt going to bother pressurising the heating tbh. At present anyway... is this the best way to go?
Sorry boss, you lost me.....am i right in thinking the f+e tank needs raising as high as possible above the cylinder??
Cws tank to current vented cylinder....yes.
Its mad...things are going to crash soon...people simply arnt earning enough to pay the trades going rates
Don't like their price? Then just ask another firm to give you a quote.
Thanks Shaun....think i need to rethink or fully understand what im needing ot what people are trying to inatall!....
and there lies the problem. Ring and leave messages and never get a response!
You are assuming the feed and vent are connected either side of the boiler? I'd have the feed and vent both on the suction side of the pump on a low head system, no pumping over and only consideration is enough head to prevent cavitation.
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