Fixings for dot & dab ( dry lined ) walls

[BN9Pete]

I have a job coming up where I have got to install 2 upright rads to dot & dab/ dry lined walls.
I am looking for advice on which is the best type of fixing for this job, I have installed a few upright rads but always on brick or block walls.
I have seen a product online called Dryline Pro which is designed for these walls, but I haven't seen them sold in any builders/plumbers merchants or in Screwfix. Don't really want to order them if I can buy something locally to do the job.

The rads are single panel and 2 metres high.

Thanks in advance, as I won't be back online until this evening.

 

[Jay The Plumber]

grip it's

GripIt Fixings - Grip It Heavy Duty Plasterboard Fixings

 

[DaveTidy]

If you ever get stuck in the middle of no-where and don't have fixings for dot and dab, we used to:

1. Measure the distance between the wall and the surface of the plasterboard (stick a screwdriver through where you want to drill and, measure it).

2. Cut a piece of copper to this length to act as a sleeve for the screw and for the surface appliance / rad bracket to pull up against.

3. Drill your hole into the brickwork as normal and fit the appropriate wall plug.

4. Put a decent washer behind the screw to give it added support.

5. Fit the appliance / rad as normal.

This was the old method of fixing to dot and dab before all the nice fixings supplied nowadays and it does work nicely so just ensure you have a few decent washer just in case the expensive fixings run out!

 

[Howsie]

grip it's

GripIt Fixings - Grip It Heavy Duty Plasterboard Fixings

I find them useless.

 

[AWheating]

4" x 12 screws if there is no dab near by then some expanding foam between board and wall can stop board movement.

 

[Soulman]

Interset Cavity Fixings | JPL Direct

Make sure you use the setting tool

 

[gmartine]

D&d doesn't really warrant specialised fittings does it? I just use a longer screw and pack in a couple plugs if needed or use the smaller end of frame type or hammer in fixing.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scr...ixings/sd1950/Fischer+Hammer-in+Fixing/p65723

 

[REDSAW]

just done 14 rads couple of weeks ago, bloody nightmare 2'' void behind wobbly 9mm plasterboard!
ended up using my last supply of 100mm x 14's pozi's then no-nailed the bracket to plaster board.

going to try those brown grip-its next time with some no nails to glue them in.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

just done 14 rads couple of weeks ago, bloody nightmare 2'' void behind wobbly 9mm plasterboard!
ended up using my last supply of 100mm x 14's pozi's then no-nailed the bracket to plaster board.

going to try those brown grip-its next time with some no nails to glue them in.

this might help you

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scr...sd1950/Kitchen+Unit+Space+Plug+Fitting/p69084

[video=youtube;hYjS0krmZCo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYjS0krmZCo[/video]

 

[Scott_D]

Is it thermolite blocks?

 

[BN9Pete]

If you ever get stuck in the middle of no-where and don't have fixings for dot and dab, we used to:

1. Measure the distance between the wall and the surface of the plasterboard (stick a screwdriver through where you want to drill and, measure it).

2. Cut a piece of copper to this length to act as a sleeve for the screw and for the surface appliance / rad bracket to pull up against.

3. Drill your hole into the brickwork as normal and fit the appropriate wall plug.

4. Put a decent washer behind the screw to give it added support.

5. Fit the appliance / rad as normal.

This was the old method of fixing to dot and dab before all the nice fixings supplied nowadays and it does work nicely so just ensure you have a few decent washer just in case the expensive fixings run out!

May just try this with some decent Fischer plugs to go into the wall.
Thanks.

 

[BN9Pete]

grip it's

GripIt Fixings - Grip It Heavy Duty Plasterboard Fixings

I find them useless.

What worries me is trying these fixings for the first time on a 2 metre rad, one of you is recommending them and the other says useless.
I asked in one of the local suppliers today about these fixings, they said they gave samples out to a few installers and they didn't go down well, the supplier decided not to stock them.

I would give them a chance on a small rad.

 

[BN9Pete]

Interset Cavity Fixings | JPL Direct

Make sure you use the setting tool

Great for plasterboard on stud walls, on dot & dab though would they work? gap between the board and wall may not be big enough.
I do keep 2 or 3 sizes of this type of fixing in my van and the setting tool, so worth a try if the gap between the board and wall is greater than the length of the fixing.

 

[BN9Pete]

Is it thermolite blocks?

80s house so I'm guessing yes, but I have only been to the property to do the estimate so I will find out next week.

 

[Scott_D]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/40mm-CONCRETE-FRAME-FIXING-SCREW/dp/B00P55KNJS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469129376&sr=8-1&keywords=brick+screws

 

[AlexGas]

120mm concrete screws have done the trick for me in the past - love them.

 

[Millsy 82]

I use long rawl bolt things from screw fix. They have about a 30mm spacer on them and I've not had a problem yet.

 

[REDSAW]

this might help you

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scr...sd1950/Kitchen+Unit+Space+Plug+Fitting/p69084

[video=youtube;hYjS0krmZCo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYjS0krmZCo[/video]

does same job as a lump o 3x3 at the back!
anyhow, how do you get them behind the plaster board??????

 

[ShaunCorbs]

does same job as a lump o 3x3 at the back!
anyhow, how do you get them behind the plaster board??????

Drill a hole that size with a hole cutter

 

[REDSAW]

Drill a hole that size with a hole cutter

ah yeh, now i like your thinking, but i never get the holes in the right place anyway.lol

fffffffff how much!!