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:reddevil:ID Chappy hi there its only water whats the worst case flood..... keeps dust down lol brum (not the rusty old car but the rusty old geezer)
 
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ive never had any problem freezing lead with the cans just follow the instructions there are two valves in that picture which are you tryiung to change? i assume the lower one is buggered and theyve wiped another one above
 
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Looks to me like there is just enough copper to freeze straight after lead. But it's close to call so could be wrong.

I would never take that job in unless it was in my own house.
 
Have you tried the bottom stoptap?

Hi. The old lead stop tap beneath has had the handle and nearly all of the spindle cut off (presumably to fit the kitchen cupboards). I reckon they must have fitted the new wiped in stop tap then cut the handle off the old one. It's too short to even get mole grips on.
 
Looks to me like there is just enough copper to freeze straight after lead. But it's close to call so could be wrong.

I would never take that job in unless it was in my own house.

There is 50mm of copper between the lead pipe and the lip of the elbow fitting. If you include the elbow more like 60mm. I think this would accept an electric freeze clamp but with it being so close to both the elbow and the lead to copper wipe it puts doubt in my mind.
 
Loosened the gland nut tonight and sprayed liberally with wd40. Also put a heat gun on it, still no way of getting past the stuck point. The spindle moves freely within a short zone then just locks solid. I'm starting to think that perhaps the washer has split internally and is lodged against the valve casing inside stopping it rotating. If this is the case, how messy would it be to do a live swap of just the spindle and handle etc. The valve is a bs1010-2 so I presume if we buy a replacement tap, and just use the core, chances are it will be compatible. If we turn all other upstream traps etc on whilst we do it could we whip out the core of the old balls and screw in a new core without too much water loss?
 
Is say if your gonna do a live swap. Have a plan B or a good insurance policy 🙂

Is there nowhere further downstream you could freeze and relocate the stop ?
 
Further to that if your gonna do a live swap ensure that every tap is opened fully to relieve incoming pressure in the system

But if you do , and it will go toward the cost of repairs.......video it and stick it ln youtube and youve been framed 😀
 
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If United utilities don't come out and locate the stop tap call them and tell them that you have a leak and need to shut the water off but your internal stop tap has failed. They have a duty of care to prevent wastage of water.
 
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UU have just sent a very helpful lady out. She put a Genny on the internal rising main and traced the exact line out to the pavement. Marked it up and raised a job order for Amey to come out and expose the stopcock and bring it back into usable condition. When I said that the person on the phone had advised this wouldn't happen she told me they have a mandate to do try to do everything they can to avoid costs and work but in this instance she agreed its risky to mess with the internal main with no way of shutting off at the pavement. It could take up to 2 weeks for them to do it but at least then its done. Feel a lot happier now and will just wait until the externals ate done before touching the internals. Thanks all for the advice.
 
If United utilities don't come out and locate the stop tap call them and tell them that you have a leak and need to shut the water off but your internal stop tap has failed. They have a duty of care to prevent wastage of water.

They would if its on the outside boundry of the property, if its inside wont they tell him to contact a plumber?
 
They would if its on the outside boundry of the property, if its inside wont they tell him to contact a plumber?

I don't know about united utilities but Thames water come out all the time to stuff like this to help locate stop taps or put a new one in. United utilities should have a plan of where your outside stoptap should be.
 
i had one once where the inside stopcock was stuffed and i couldn't turn off the outside one because it was at an angle so couldn't get my key on it. the cust phoned southern water and it was sorted inside two hours with a brand new outside stopcock, i could then change the inside one.
 
Hi this is my third post on this subject I done agency work back in 98 fitting water meters for severn trent they would rather you froze a pipe than done a trace maybe things have changed now ?This is how I have no probs freezing lead .
 
Back to square one I think. UU put a CAT and Genny on the lead and got a very strong trace down the driveway to the pavement, marked it up and got their contractor out to fit a stop tap, but when they dug down in this location they couldn't find any trace of the water main so have backfilled and made good. I have requested a revisit by the inspector but I doubt this will change anything and I reckon they may refuse to reattempt.

I'm back to considering a live swap of the guts of the stopcock only. Bought an almost identical stop tap and all dimensions seem to be correct to swap the guts only. I would turn on all upstream taps to relieve pressure before unscrewing the old one and screwing in the new.

What do you reckon? Go for it?
 

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