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Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws
B
Bunker
Not sure I like the idea of crushing a braided hose. Pinching the hose alone wont allow you to test the expansion vessel unless you also detach the hose before testing the charge. Flexible break hoses are quite different to braided plumbing hoses. You can buy schrader valve extensions from truck supply stores which can make connecting to concealed valves easier. They are intended for lorries with double wheels each axle end to allow the inner wheel valve to be reached from the outer wheel but they work great for expansion vessels.
W
Whyme
K
kay-jay
I usually clamp plastic with my teeth at arms length from where I'm gonna cut it, then give it a snip and whack a valve on it.
The above method works in england and wales however due to poor dental hygiene should not be attempted if you are scottish.....😛
T
tamz
B
Bunker
Had a thought about this yesterday as I removed an exp vessel. You only have to let the pressure off not drain the system down anyway. I then wind a cap onto the flex just to stop the drips.
If you did use that clamp then the vessel would still have pressure in it and would make a mess.
Just release system pressure (ideally from a drain off or rad, try to avoid the temptation if the PRV)
E
Ermintrude
Don't most boilers with internal exp have ISo valves and drain off? With most intergalactic filling loops u can empty boiler off? That is if the previous fitter understood regs and fitted nrv on cold not ch
I
IDCHAPPY
If you're going to change the syphon on a close couple toilet that's been in for a few years, it's always worth having a spare donut and bracket handy as the old one will probably be rusted to buggery 🙁
I
IDCHAPPY
I
IDCHAPPY
This is used so you don't have to isolate the boiler and drain off. How many times do you use the boiler isolating valves, only to see them start dripping when you move them.
yes there will still be pressure present in the vessel, but undoing the hose and catching the water will get rid of that. Then it's a simple replacement.
When using polypipe pushfit, always Use the insert (don't forget to insert a pipe collar fgs ), for the flitting and not the pipe..
Eg!, if you have a "JG" elbow 22mm and Hep2o pipe 22mm. To get the 101% watertight outcome it is necessary you use the "JG"guide or vice versa...
Eg!, if you have a "JG" elbow 22mm and Hep2o pipe 22mm. To get the 101% watertight outcome it is necessary you use the "JG"guide or vice versa...
T
TBServices
T
TBServices
T
TBServices
Well that was the point I was going to make Steve, but I wasn't sure whether his "advice" was actually contradictory to this, due to it's general incoherency.
To clarify - The insert/liner must be the correct brand for the PIPE, due to differing inside diameters of pipe between brands. NOT the fitting.
To clarify - The insert/liner must be the correct brand for the PIPE, due to differing inside diameters of pipe between brands. NOT the fitting.
K
kay-jay
Spanner.
Pipe sizes relate to the outer diameter of a pipe.
this means jg, polyplumb, hep and the other plastic fittings will work on each others pipes as they fit the same OD
BUT
They have different internal diameters which the insert goes too.
jg could be 14mm id while hep is 13mm.
you need the correct insert to stiffen the pipe or they sit lose and are useless.
Pipe sizes relate to the outer diameter of a pipe.
this means jg, polyplumb, hep and the other plastic fittings will work on each others pipes as they fit the same OD
BUT
They have different internal diameters which the insert goes too.
jg could be 14mm id while hep is 13mm.
you need the correct insert to stiffen the pipe or they sit lose and are useless.
It was the first interested thread I looked at.. and now I'm doing double work in finding out about push fit fittings... sorry for the hold up.. if I get back to administrator to get the thread removed
Okay thanks. Now let's say you have a jg tee and a polyplumb pipe! The way round would be to use the polyplumb pipe insert
OK - so this isn't plumbing related specifically but is trade related, and may help someone who uses Makita cordless tools.
I have lots of Makita stuff and therefore need lots of batteries. So when one died recently, I popped to buy a new one. Toolstation are selling the new 4ah batteries for about £85 which I know isn't super cheap, but when you consider it will definitely be genuine and that until last month Screwfix wanted £149 for a 3Ah it seems a deal.
So I bought 2 of em. When they arrived they wouldn't fit into any of my 3Ah tools. I quickly realised why, and with the Dremel sorted it in under a minute. The 4Ah isn't going to damage my tools just last longer than a 3Ah. So don't worry about that.
Attached are some photos. I hope this is clear, and it may help someone!
PS - so far the 4Ah batteries do last a fair bit longer than the 3's.
I have lots of Makita stuff and therefore need lots of batteries. So when one died recently, I popped to buy a new one. Toolstation are selling the new 4ah batteries for about £85 which I know isn't super cheap, but when you consider it will definitely be genuine and that until last month Screwfix wanted £149 for a 3Ah it seems a deal.
So I bought 2 of em. When they arrived they wouldn't fit into any of my 3Ah tools. I quickly realised why, and with the Dremel sorted it in under a minute. The 4Ah isn't going to damage my tools just last longer than a 3Ah. So don't worry about that.
Attached are some photos. I hope this is clear, and it may help someone!
PS - so far the 4Ah batteries do last a fair bit longer than the 3's.
I must add, after doing this, I won't be able to return them if they fail in the first 12 months, but I'm not really concerned about that. Also checked the web prices out of the 4Ah I can't see anyone doing them as cheap.
W
Whyme
or just use the right plastic insert and a brass compression fitting (can join many plastic sins), sorted.
I wonder why makita bring out new 4ah battery's then try not to let us use em on are kit?
Dunno, its weird. Which is why I didn't check it before I bought the batteries. I would have been annoyed if there wasn't a work around. They probably do work on the latest 'brushless' tools. Don't know.
When your on a job and there isn't one it's polite to fit one. Sick of muppets who fit system or do a boiler swap and neglect to spend £3.49 and two mins to fit them !!!!!!!
A quid for doff in local merchants, 12 quid for ten e feed tees in tool station I think I've just paid
E
Ermintrude
Had new lad notch out joists, he started and I stopped him. Was only going to leave 5mm of joist.
Ok so this is what I showed him. You need rip snorter, bendinding guide for size of tube u need to notch out for, hammer and a pointy sharp thing.
Remove board
Run saw with blade set at pipe thickness plus 3mm
Run saw so guide is against adjacent board
Cut all joists needed
Next put guide between edge of board and side of snorter.... Cuts hole with 3mm gap either side.
Then simply whack notch with hammer and tidy with sharp thing.
Ok so this is what I showed him. You need rip snorter, bendinding guide for size of tube u need to notch out for, hammer and a pointy sharp thing.
Remove board
Run saw with blade set at pipe thickness plus 3mm
Run saw so guide is against adjacent board
Cut all joists needed
Next put guide between edge of board and side of snorter.... Cuts hole with 3mm gap either side.
Then simply whack notch with hammer and tidy with sharp thing.
E
Ermintrude
No u can also set snorter to pipe plus board, just use old board as a straight edge on top. For two 15mm use two guides or slice pipe slice
E
Ermintrude
K
Kyle87
Become friends with a carpet fitter. Their business is in and out fast as they can and on to the next. So they see a lot of people per day........the "do you know a plumber?" Question is often popped out when tradesmen are in someone's house.
Also they change their knife blade like every ten mins. Their bluntest blades are still sharper than anything in a plumbers tool box. So it's free Stanley blades for life
Also they change their knife blade like every ten mins. Their bluntest blades are still sharper than anything in a plumbers tool box. So it's free Stanley blades for life
M
Mike Jackson
I use polytheen dustsheets when replacing rads o trv's ect, one 12x12ft does like 2 rads change easily if you cut them in half and that's if you triple layer them up. masking tape them to the skirting behind the rad and cut them so they fit around the pipes feeding the radiator then masking tape the dustsheet to the pipe. tidy job, no spills thru to the carpet and once you finished you can wrap all you rubbish up in them and chuck away! and at £23 for a pack of 10 in TRAVS PERKIS!!!!! ( enough to do 20 rad changes approx.) id say they are a bargain. I don't like dust sheets after they get whet , they smell of amp and look awful!! that's my opinion anyway, if you masking tape them to the skirting no dust will get behind onto the carpets when drilling!
W
Whyme
E
Ermintrude
Buy a second hand washing machine then. Only use laundrette as easier than washing and drying 30 odd sheets
M
Mike Jackson
Following on from the dust in pipes thread. Want an easy way of preventing debris getting into new pipework. Slap a speedfit stop end on. Only problem is what happens if you stick one on a pipe intended for gas and forget about it? Easy drill a small hole in the end and paint it yellow. Can't be mistaken for a normal one and if you forget to remove it before gassing up it will show as a fail on the tightness test.
I've also got a test point threaded into the end of a speedfit connector to allow me to test gas pipes before they are connected to the meter. Also useful when you are trying to track down a leak as you can isolate sections of pipe and test them separately.
I've also got a test point threaded into the end of a speedfit connector to allow me to test gas pipes before they are connected to the meter. Also useful when you are trying to track down a leak as you can isolate sections of pipe and test them separately.
I find those jg caps to be a nightmare to get off. Especially in tight spaces. I have lost many a battle with them.
Have you ever tried to get one off a pipe frozen with a freezing machine where the stop end is 2mm above the ice plug? Hacksawing that off was proper brown trouser time.
Edit: sorry that was banter.
Tip: Don't live catch a pipe with a stop end that you later intend to freeze and join onto unless there is room to cut.
Edit: sorry that was banter.
Tip: Don't live catch a pipe with a stop end that you later intend to freeze and join onto unless there is room to cut.
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W
Whyme
any pipe intended for gas needs a compression (if accessible) or end feed for the just in case i forget about it !!
K
kay-jay
I solemnly agree..Shift+R improves the quality of this image. Shift+A improves the quality of all images on this page.
M
Mike Jackson
Which is the reason for the small hole, debris stays out but you can't forget to remove it because it will fail the tightness test. Saves wasting an olive using a compression fitting just for pipe protection.
If you're trying to bung a Fluidmaster bottom entry into a toilet and it is slightly catching on the side, it turns out that putting a small screw in the very top of the darth vader style helmet - and using it to lever it away from the side by couple of millimeters doesn't interfere with the operation at all, although it does displease The Emperor.
L
lame plumber
When applying silicon sealant to a new bathroom, save hours of time cleaning down: -
1.) Apply silicon into joint, ensure joint is filled completely. Do not smooth down yet.
2.) Lightly spray a good quality silicon lubricant (like the WD40 silicon lubricant available from Screwfix) over the entire joint.
3.) Smooth joint off with your finger. No silicon will stick anywhere where silicon spray is.
Saves loads of time!
1.) Apply silicon into joint, ensure joint is filled completely. Do not smooth down yet.
2.) Lightly spray a good quality silicon lubricant (like the WD40 silicon lubricant available from Screwfix) over the entire joint.
3.) Smooth joint off with your finger. No silicon will stick anywhere where silicon spray is.
Saves loads of time!
T
Toxic Ted
Buy the silicone working tools set - ( the different shaped rubber bits that have tapered sides & different corner cut outs ). I never had any until recently & find them fantastic for shaping the silicone joint & removing any of the excess smear - often in one go. Only cost me about £4 in Lidl
Never tried it in a spray bottle to be honest. Have used it in a cup before but will give that a try. Cheers!
E
Ermintrude
K
kay-jay
faulty expansion vessel? not got a spare or time to go collect one, or cant do the job til next week......
drain upstairs, refill system bleed all rads apart from one(spare room, landing,bathroom) this unbled rad becomes your temperary expansion vessel.
you get to charge for the temp fix and again for the replacement!
now thats a top tip
drain upstairs, refill system bleed all rads apart from one(spare room, landing,bathroom) this unbled rad becomes your temperary expansion vessel.
you get to charge for the temp fix and again for the replacement!
now thats a top tip
- May 23, 2015
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- Heating Engineer (Has GSR)
I’m the tiler. You let the bonding plaster to set first and then get on with tiling. No probs at all.
- May 23, 2015
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- 1
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- Member Type
- Heating Engineer (Has GSR)
How does it work?
Keep the rad turned off? If you turn it on won't it just refill?
What am I missing?
It's going to be full of air... As the heating heats up, it compresses the air in the radiator and that takes the expanded water. It only lasts a week or so though.
So you keep the rad turned off? I'm still a bit lost on this one. How can it be used if it's full off? I understand it's full of air but the air is in the rad with both valves off so it can't go anywhere
Sorry if I'm still missing it!
Sorry if I'm still missing it!
I use these Bristan Bar Valve Wall Mount 10 Fixing Kit Chrome-Plated | Spares and Parts | NoLinkingToThis the fitting is actually this side of the tile – no need to worry about any leaks, cos it’s all soldered behind the tile.
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