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Truth is all fluxes & all fittings, end feed or Yorkshire will solder okay if you prepare them & are able to solder properly.
Everyone has their own preference in fluxes etc, sometimes just because of what they are used to.
My personal preference is good quality end feed fittings & leaded solder for heating pipes & obviously lead free for potable water. I use the old fashioned grease based flux - Frys Fluxite or the similar Yorkshire Traditional flux, both of which are fairly non aggressive, but I now have the Laco flux which is non toxic.
I clean the fittings & pipes to clean copper & as well as fluxing the joints, I dab flux on end of solder as I solder. I don't believe in over heating the joints, except a little above the melting stage of soldering. If the pipe/fitting discolours, it is dirty.
 
Oh Dear ..........how to produce a perfect solder joint

Anybody new person who has been trained by an expert on the job
or at collage will know all this stuff.

For us to teach someone at this
distance is I think fatuous. Ok Propane (RED) gas, yes laco, why use
yorkshire fittings - way costly - end feed is better. Then wipe it after
with a cold rag while still hot.

But really this poster needs to go on a course because there is so much more

Mind you all I have got a yorkshire to solder with an electric paint stripper
-hair dryer type gun when despearte once when my last gas ran out :santa_smiley: chking


Centralheatking
 
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As jtsplumbing says, steel wire left in the joint will cause small leaks. I have also experienced this problem and now I always wipe the pipe and the inside of the fitting with a cotton cloth before making the joint to ensure that all bits of wire are removed. Since doing this I have not had a joint that leaked!
 
What's your trade? Builder carpenter? Your problem maybe you haven't had the right training.
 
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As jtsplumbing says, steel wire left in the joint will cause small leaks. I have also experienced this problem and now I always wipe the pipe and the inside of the fitting with a cotton cloth before making the joint to ensure that all bits of wire are removed. Since doing this I have not had a joint that leaked!

But the amount of time it takes means I only do two joints a week. Some mug said he didn't use a flux brush cos it left hair in joint? Good luck soldering 28mm and an over
 
Wow a thread on soldering ...I hate laco ...love everflux...just make sure you clean it off while hot ..lovely joints everytime..but then again I'm fully trained in the dark arts
 
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Wow a thread on soldering ...I hate laco ...love everflux...just make sure you clean it off while hot ..lovely joints everytime..but then again I'm fully trained in the dark arts

I know a lot of guys prefer the Everflux, but there is no getting past the fact that it is highly corrosive stuff! I won't ever use it tbh & it will obviously run inside the pipes & surely not good for a dry pipe such as a gas pipe.
I have came across a lot of soldered joints where the solder itself is noticeably dry & I have seen these leaking. I have been able to simply rub the cold solder off the pipe using a bit of well worn emery cloth after I heated & removed the old fitting. I am not sure what flux was used with the plumber, but sure it was an acid based one & likely Everflux.
 
When cleaning the pipe / joint any reason not to use S/S pan scrubbers?
For: No bits, seems to get them just as clean, doesn't go rusty, last ages, less scratches, doesn't wreck your hand if not wearing gloves
Against: ?
 
We use 3m fine finishing pads , look like the green things u clean pans with but last longer. Bought a box of them from buck n hickman over a year ago..... Box did cost ££££££ tho

Miles better than rollies or the pads u but in packet. U do however need to cut them in to strips - massive task
 
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There was some flux years ago called 'Bakers Blue' I put into
my eye by accidend on M4 cause i had not washed my hands

- in the end I ripped out the washer bottle of my transit on the hard shoulder
to get an eye wash it was agony Centralheatking
Frys power flux
 
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