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I'd go for a multi thingamy wotsit as you can use it to cut right up to skirting boards, cut pipes near ceilings, sanding (if you must let the side down!), notching and various other situations. It's creates much less dust than a circular saw, is quieter and there's no motor to get in the way. Also, you're much less likely to saw through the cable.

I do agree with the over thinking remarks as well!! It's really easy and after your first one you'll wonder what the worry was about. If you cut into a joist a little you're not going to bring the house down. You just need to take care, take your time and be sensible (e.g. look for wires, pipes, nests, etc at the first opportunity).
 
Hi Bernie,

The circular saw I've looked at getting is a £100 entry-level makita and comes with a 10 teeth blade. If I'm to get a separate blade with finer teeth how fine would you recommend and are circular saw blades universal or would I have to get a makita one? Also what depth should I set it at to be sure not to cut too deep on boards as I hear they vary in dimensions?

If you are spending around £100 this is one of the best saws you can get for floor work. Good strong build, aluminium sole plate, small and light enough to easily handle.
http://www.*************/p/dewalt-d23550-gb-165mm-circular-saw-240v/79973 (scre wfix dot com)

If you are using it just for floors and notches etc, take the riving knife off (the thing behind the blade) as it gets in the way.

The more teeth a blade has the finer the cut but don't worry too much about it. With a 165mm blade 12 teeth are ok until you loose a few teeth. You can get spare blades with more teeth for around a tenner if you like.

Std tounge and groove flooring is 3/4". Chipboard is 19 or 22mm.
 
Thanks for the advice everyone. I now feel clued up.

Arrrghhh now I want both a multi-tool and a circular saw!!

When's christmas? Is it soon?
 
If you want both I'd go for the multi first then you might feel you don't need the circular saw. I own both but the saw has stayed at home for over a year now.
 
if its just floorboards your lifting all you need is a floorboard lifter, a hammer and a jacksaw
 
Surely this thread is a joke.

If you've posted on this site over 1000 times but never lifted a floor board then what have you been doing?
Your boss was too good to you - lifting boards while you watched!
Give me his number - I need some boards lifted tomorrow.

Ps: if you use a reciprocating saw then one day you are going to get into trouble big time.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If you've posted on this site over 1000 times but never lifted a floor board then what have you been doing?

Posting on this site, perhaps?

The clue might be in your question.

Jono, my friend, I'm not sure what relation there might be between numbers of posts on this site and competency in plumbing - generally speaking it seems the higher the number the more experienced and knowledgable the person - but for me personally 95% of all my posts have been attempting to aquire information rather than dispense it. So it's really not all that suprising.
 
I use crow bar and hammer and screwdrivers, if i need to use rip snorter then i use that, or if its chip boards get the joiner in amongst it since he passes alot of work my way.
 
I'm not having a go at you watertight, I honestly thought when I started to read this thread you were joking.

Surely a person of your experience will have lifted floor boards, and just the way you said you'd watched your old boss lift hundreds - It made me laugh, that's all.

In my opinion the only time you need a power tool for lifting floor boards is if they are full tongue and groove chip board panels etc and timber t&g boards but I believe only a circular saw set at 18mm if its a 18mm board - you don't want to electrocute yourself or flood a house. Lift one section so you can get your head and a light to see if any dangers lurk beneath.

I havn't posted a lot on here because,
a) I've got 2 kids under Five
b) I've too much work on and therefor too busy to post all the time.

Any way best of luck to ya
 
I'm not having a go at you watertight, I honestly thought when I started to read this thread you were joking.

Surely a person of your experience will have lifted floor boards, and just the way you said you'd watched your old boss lift hundreds - It made me laugh, that's all.

In my opinion the only time you need a power tool for lifting floor boards is if they are full tongue and groove chip board panels etc and timber t&g boards but I believe only a circular saw set at 18mm if its a 18mm board - you don't want to electrocute yourself or flood a house. Lift one section so you can get your head and a light to see if any dangers lurk beneath.

I havn't posted a lot on here because,
a) I've got 2 kids under Five
b) I've too much work on and therefor too busy to post all the time.

Any way best of luck to ya
Well done jono keep the young ones happy thats the main thing

Anyway floor boards ! around my way we have a newish (2 years old) estate and I had to move two rads. So I pulled the carpet to find Chipboard flooring then cut it with a circular saw and then found it was glued to the joist.

I had to go and get some new boards to replace what was ruined

I have lifted thousands of boards but none like these
 
I just use hammer and floorboard chisel/flat screwdriver. I cut the tongue and boards out with a circular saw. I wouldnt use a power tool that you can't set it's depth.
 
Surely a person of your experience will have lifted floor boards

Again I think you're confusing numbers of posts on a message board about plumbing with years experience in plumbing.

All the amount of posts on this message board really denotes is the extent to which you've nothing better to do.

But yes, anyway, moving along...
 
In four years I've never had a leak or got wet ...






AS IF ...

Just thinking about it (that hurt!) I've never installed a CWSS or F&E tank, unvented cylinder, total heating system or totally re-plumbed a house or changed a complete zone valve, converted an open vented system to a sealed system. I ran away from non copper pipes a while back!!
 
i have a circular saw and bosch multitool and both are as useful as each other. the biggest problem i find with the multitool is the blades dont seem to last 5 minutes even just through wood and at £20 a go that becomes quite an expense so i tend to use the saw for boards and multitool for awkward places. moved some radiator pipes the other day, joist about 1/2" infront of where the pipes came through, boards ran through under the wall, had to cut a hole in the joist using the multitool large enough to get my fingers in and fish the pipes through.
 

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