Solder joint

[ma701ss]

Hi, I joined two sections of 15mm copper pipe today. Not something I've done before but had some help from the father-in-law. I used a straight coupler with the solder inside, which when heated flowed to the edges and seems to have sealed all around. My questions are, is it possible overheating with the blowtorch could still have created a faulty joint? We just blasted it with heat. Also, a few minutes after soldering I flexed the two sections of pipe slightly, could this cause the solder to crack within the coupler? We didn't manage to get the system filled up again today so I'm sitting here wondering if the joint will be OK!

 

[Ermintrude]

Be fine!

 

[AWheating]

i take it you cleaned the joint and used flux??

over heating can be an issue, but aslong as you use a small flame and keep it on the fitting and not the pipe it should be fine.

 

[ma701ss]

i take it you cleaned the joint and used flux??

over heating can be an issue, but aslong as you use a small flame and keep it on the fitting and not the pipe it should be fine.

We did heat up the pipe about 3" either side of the joint. Also cleaned the joint ans used flux.

 

[SimonG]

I wouldn't sweat it 🙂 🙂


I'll get me coat.

 

[Masood]

It'll be fine! Stop worrying...

 

[Masood]

I wouldn't sweat it 🙂 🙂


I'll get me coat.

Detention for you, my lad! Write out 100 times "I will not make bad puns on Sunday evenings!" 😀

 

[SimonG]

Detention for you, my lad! Write out 100 times "I will not make bad puns on Sunday evenings!" 😀

Just couldn't resist 🙂

 

[gassafe]

Hi, I joined two sections of 15mm copper pipe today. Not something I've done before but had some help from the father-in-law. I used a straight coupler with the solder inside, which when heated flowed to the edges and seems to have sealed all around. My questions are, is it possible overheating with the blowtorch could still have created a faulty joint? We just blasted it with heat. Also, a few minutes after soldering I flexed the two sections of pipe slightly, could this cause the solder to crack within the coupler? We didn't manage to get the system filled up again today so I'm sitting here wondering if the joint will be OK!

visually check to see if the solder has ran around the entire joint! Done a few jobs where the customer has done alot of it diy with these fittings, and only half the joint has ran round!

If you blasted it like you say, probs fine but easier to check now, than try to resolver when full of water!

What is the joint for out of interest? Water, radiators?

 

[ma701ss]

OK, first attempt actually failed. Solder not all the way around the joint as you say. Water leaked out slowly. This is a joint between the new radiator tail and existing pipe by the way.

Second attempt no leaks on the joint. However........the valves I've screwed into the new Delonghi radiator on both sides are slowly dripping. I've tightened to the max to try and stop it but no good. I wrapped PTFE tape around before screwing in but only once around I think.

The compression joints on the valves seem OK except for one on the TRV valve. It's the joint that slides back and forth (if you know what I mean).

Any tips for preventing leaks at the radiator? All other joints are either solder or compression.

If all else fails, how much do you reckon a plumber / gas fitter would charge just to unscrew the two valves, remove from the pipework and reconnect PROPERLY!!!? I will have the system drained down ready.

Thanks

 

[gassafe]

OK, first attempt actually failed. Solder not all the way around the joint as you say. Water leaked out slowly. This is a joint between the new radiator tail and existing pipe by the way.

Second attempt no leaks on the joint. However........the valves I've screwed into the new Delonghi radiator on both sides are slowly dripping. I've tightened to the max to try and stop it but no good. I wrapped PTFE tape around before screwing in but only once around I think.

The compression joints on the valves seem OK except for one on the TRV valve. It's the joint that slides back and forth (if you know what I mean).

Any tips for preventing leaks at the radiator? All other joints are either solder or compression.

If all else fails, how much do you reckon a plumber / gas fitter would charge just to unscrew the two valves, remove from the pipework and reconnect PROPERLY!!!? I will have the system drained down ready.

Thanks

I did say to check solder has ran all way round 😛

once round with ptfe :0 surprised its not leaking worse lol! It wants 8-10 times round at least!

 

[supper plumb]

It will help if we knew where you was?
cant talk about prices on open forum sorry

rad valves 8/10 raps of PTFE as said before compression joints say 3 turns or PTFE on olive or paste on olives.
dont rush it or you mite then cross tread tails

As for solder ring joints clean pipe and fittings only flux pipe fit joint then heat on half power onto the joint not pipe move the flame about a little bit. the flux will bubble and flame will turn greenish.
Not a bad plan just to run a small bit of solder round edge just to top it up. Well thats what i doo
leave joints to cool damp rag to clean joints after job done

 

[mfgs]

Standard ptfe needs about 10-12 wraps. The one wrap stuff needs about 3-4 wraps around.

 

[Julian_P]

OK, first attempt actually failed. Solder not all the way around the joint as you say. Water leaked out slowlyks

Having watched plumbers as a lad, and having used pre-soldered Yorkshire fittings for decades, I still always dab the joint with some additional solder. When you see that run into the joint you just know the job's a goodun!

Julian

 

[ma701ss]

Blimey! (and I never say blimey) 8-10 or 10-12 wraps? No wonder it's leaking then but I'm surprised it fits with that amount of tape around it!! I put two turns of PTFE tape around the pipework, slid the olives over, then wrapped two turns of tape around the olives, and finally the same around the thread of the valves. Is it necessary around the pipework? Solder joints are fine, at least they haven't leaked after filling up the system. I haven't switched on the boiler yet. They haven't leaked yet but is there any chance they could still leak? Thanks for all the replies. This is plumbing 101 but when you can't afford a plumber it's good to know help is at hand!

 

[PlumbBobBob]

you don't need ptfe on the thread at all or under the olive. what i do is tighten the joint up first, slacken it off then a couple of turns round the olive but only if using old pipe. with new pipe you don't really need anything.

 

[Ermintrude]

Locktight 55 on stump into rad and then jet blue on threads.

 

[nysk2008]

Just a lick of jet blue around the olive and 10-15 turns of ptfe for rad tails - works for me.

 

[ma701ss]

Just a lick of jet blue around the olive and 10-15 turns of ptfe for rad tails - works for me.

When you say rad tails I presume you mean where the valve screws into the rad?

The comment about new pipe not needing any tape, I used new pipe but found the compression joints on the valve leaked when I moved the pipework slightly. I thought usually you could pull them around quite a bit without risk of leaking.

 

[ma701ss]

Locktight 55 on stump into rad and then jet blue on threads.

Anything on the olives? Why not loctite 55 on ALL threads not just rad valves?