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- Thread starter Oilboil
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- May 23, 2015
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I just replaced a length of 10mm bare copper pipe which had been in plastic sleeving today. The pipe hand rotted through and was leaking oil.
T
tamz
Plastic pipe: you don't have a leak.
A. Your engineer didn't know basic principles of pressure testing plastic pipe.
B. I bet you were all over him like a rash
C. Where there is blame there is claim.......unlucky; ladbrooks wouldn't take a bet on a leak or damage with the test. Your pipe is fine but it is your prerogative to challenge that in court if you have the spare cash.
The pressure on an oil line would be doing well to exceed 0.2 bar ( i gave it the benefit of the doubt there and added another 0.1) so you could in reality, hold a joint together with some juicy fruit (old fashioned chewing gum made by wriggleys).
Back to basics. Plastic pipe expands under pressure and the max time it should ever be tested to is 180 mins or 120 depending on the test: say 12 bar test 0.6 bar drop after 30 mins 0.8 after 2 1/2hrs and the drop will continue with time, or 12 bar initial then drop to 4 bar no loss after 90 mins.
This IS basic stuff for ALL plastics.
Since the world revolves around the internet google the numpty and i'm sure you'll find it or if you are stuck ring the pipe manu and ask for the test procedure.
They will get back to you in 2 days or so in which time your pressure will have went up or down depending how you feel but doing so may have invalidated your warranty.
Do you call it a day and think he'll with it without manufacurers support (is He really listening) or just see if you can make another 30+ years before your planting
A. Your engineer didn't know basic principles of pressure testing plastic pipe.
B. I bet you were all over him like a rash
C. Where there is blame there is claim.......unlucky; ladbrooks wouldn't take a bet on a leak or damage with the test. Your pipe is fine but it is your prerogative to challenge that in court if you have the spare cash.
The pressure on an oil line would be doing well to exceed 0.2 bar ( i gave it the benefit of the doubt there and added another 0.1) so you could in reality, hold a joint together with some juicy fruit (old fashioned chewing gum made by wriggleys).
Back to basics. Plastic pipe expands under pressure and the max time it should ever be tested to is 180 mins or 120 depending on the test: say 12 bar test 0.6 bar drop after 30 mins 0.8 after 2 1/2hrs and the drop will continue with time, or 12 bar initial then drop to 4 bar no loss after 90 mins.
This IS basic stuff for ALL plastics.
Since the world revolves around the internet google the numpty and i'm sure you'll find it or if you are stuck ring the pipe manu and ask for the test procedure.
They will get back to you in 2 days or so in which time your pressure will have went up or down depending how you feel but doing so may have invalidated your warranty.
Do you call it a day and think he'll with it without manufacurers support (is He really listening) or just see if you can make another 30+ years before your planting
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T
tamz
T
tamz
- May 23, 2015
- 35,144
- 1
- 14,996
- 113
- Member Type
- Heating Engineer (Has GSR)
O
Oilboil
Hello again - OP here.
The engineer felt that the leak had been due to the PVC fittings that had been previously used and replaced them with brass (getting on for two months ago now.)
I noticed a bit of a smell near where the pipe enters the house today and found that the pipe was indeed wet with oil. I wiped it dry but a couple of hours later it was coated again.
The pictures below were taken after I had again wiped the pipe off and then again after about 20 minutes - you can see the darker area where the oil is leaking.
So what do I do? I'm loathe to call the same guy out again as I'm not sure that he knows (or cares) what he's doing.
My questions are:
1) can anyone recommend an engineer in Rossendale/Lancashire/West Yorks who can come and sort this out/reassure me that all is well
2) am I just being naive - should I expect a small amount of leakage on a warm day?
3) does the set-up in the pictures look right: the exposed green line, what I assume is a disconnected fire-valve etc...
The engineer felt that the leak had been due to the PVC fittings that had been previously used and replaced them with brass (getting on for two months ago now.)
I noticed a bit of a smell near where the pipe enters the house today and found that the pipe was indeed wet with oil. I wiped it dry but a couple of hours later it was coated again.
The pictures below were taken after I had again wiped the pipe off and then again after about 20 minutes - you can see the darker area where the oil is leaking.
So what do I do? I'm loathe to call the same guy out again as I'm not sure that he knows (or cares) what he's doing.
My questions are:
1) can anyone recommend an engineer in Rossendale/Lancashire/West Yorks who can come and sort this out/reassure me that all is well
2) am I just being naive - should I expect a small amount of leakage on a warm day?
3) does the set-up in the pictures look right: the exposed green line, what I assume is a disconnected fire-valve etc...
- May 23, 2015
- 35,144
- 1
- 14,996
- 113
- Member Type
- Heating Engineer (Has GSR)
O
Oilboil
It was like that when we moved in and was left like that on the two occasions when the boiler was serviced, including the occasion above when the oil line was pressure tested.
I would be concerned that the fire valve is disconnected, that needs immediate attention and refitted or replaced if faulty, the weeping oil line needs sealed using a pipe insert, ptfe and fuel seal for example haldite. You can use a vacuum gauge on the oil pump it can indicate problems with an oil line.
It isn't against the regs to use plenty of pipe to fitting joints, but not good practice. Minimum joints, minimum possible leaking points.
A remote firevalve needs refitted (that one lying on ground might be faulty and no doubt full of water and dirt now).
I would prefer a male fitting into each side of the firevalve (a male straight and a male bend) so that you only have 2 pipe connections there.
A remote firevalve needs refitted (that one lying on ground might be faulty and no doubt full of water and dirt now).
I would prefer a male fitting into each side of the firevalve (a male straight and a male bend) so that you only have 2 pipe connections there.
O
Oilboil
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