What can be done about this?

[armyash]

What’s the best way to sit the panels onto a tray or bath?
The trim some company’s sell looks a bit naff

This one the boards are floor to ceiling and the tray up to the boards. Got one next week and the tray is going in first. I think we are going to just cut the boards to fit and sit them on tray and seal up.

 

[Ben-gee]

Method is this.

Fit tray/bath as normal and seal it to the wall.

Sit board on three 1 mm packers, leave these until adhesive dry, then remove and silicone up. Pump the 3mm gap full and finish with a smoothing tool ( I use the 8mm chamfer which gives approx 5 mm coverage).
The reason for three 1 mm packers and not a single 3 mm packer is so you don’t break a piece of the laminate face off when you remove them.
Slide out the middle one of the three, then press down and the others should come out easily- yes I learnt this the hard way , got away with superglue and custard never knew! But I could see I may not be lucky next time so developed the above method.

To deal with slopes wiggles etc in ceiling and walls. Draw a horizontal line and measure up and down from it, if ceiling bad I take a measurement every 50 mm across. Same with draw a vertical line and measure left and right.
DONT just get an overall height as you will be way off, especially if tray is slightly bowed ( aren’t they nearly all?) or , heaven forbid, the tray’s not quite level!
If you are in a hurry then leave the packers in, cut them flush with the board with sharp chisel and then just press them back a few mil so they’re hidden by silicone ( you shouldn’t have to do this and I would really advise against siliconing the same day as fixing the boards.)

 

[Ben-gee]

Tray up to boards is not good, that’s only for showrooms!

 

[armyash]

Method is this.

Fit tray/bath as normal and seal it to the wall.

Sit board on three 1 mm packers, leave these until adhesive dry, then remove and silicone up. Pump the 3mm gap full and finish with a smoothing tool ( I use the 8mm chamfer which gives approx 5 mm coverage).
The reason for three 1 mm packers and not a single 3 mm packer is so you don’t break a piece of the laminate face off when you remove them.
Slide out the middle one of the three, then press down and the others should come out easily- yes I learnt this the hard way , got away with superglue and custard never knew! But I could see I may not be lucky next time so developed the above method.

To deal with slopes wiggles etc in ceiling and walls. Draw a horizontal line and measure up and down from it, if ceiling bad I take a measurement every 50 mm across. Same with draw a vertical line and measure left and right.
DONT just get an overall height as you will be way off, especially if tray is slightly bowed ( aren’t they nearly all?) or , heaven forbid, the tray’s not quite level!
If you are in a hurry then leave the packers in, cut them flush with the board with sharp chisel and then just press them back a few mil so they’re hidden by silicone ( you shouldn’t have to do this and I would really advise against siliconing the same day as fixing the boards.)

Quality info. Will use that on the bathroom next week.

What do you use to stick the boards with?

 

[armyash]

Tray up to boards is not good, that’s only for showrooms!

First time I've fitted these boards. Bloke I'm doing the job with has done a lot more than me so have followed his lead on that. Wrongly possibly.

 

[Ben-gee]

Geocel the works, or stixall are the two I use depending on availability.
Dow Corning 785 in the tongue groove joints.
I don’t use the internal corners, nice tight scribe and plane, then thin bead silicone .
All cut with handsaw and plane up to line.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Sticks like **** I use when I have to do the panels

 

[armyash]

Plasterer I know said he will skim the whole ceiling for £160 if the coving is taken down.

Might be better off doing that.

 

[Jim Goodenough]

To deal with slopes wiggles etc in ceiling and walls. Draw a horizontal line and measure up and down from it, if ceiling bad I take a measurement every 50 mm across. Same with draw a vertical line and measure left and right.
DONT just get an overall height as you will be way off, especially if tray is slightly bowed ( aren’t they nearly all?) or , heaven forbid, the tray’s not quite level!

If ceiling is bad you mearsure every 50mm, wow must be a cabinet maker....😀

 

[Jim Goodenough]

Method is this.

Fit tray/bath as normal and seal it to the wall.

Sit board on three 1 mm packers, leave these until adhesive dry, then remove and silicone up. Pump the 3mm gap full and finish with a smoothing tool ( I use the 8mm chamfer which gives approx 5 mm coverage).
The reason for three 1 mm packers and not a single 3 mm packer is so you don’t break a piece of the laminate face off when you remove them.
Slide out the middle one of the three, then press down and the others should come out easily- yes I learnt this the hard way , got away with superglue and custard never knew! But I could see I may not be lucky next time so developed the above method.

To deal with slopes wiggles etc in ceiling and walls. Draw a horizontal line and measure up and down from it, if ceiling bad I take a measurement every 50 mm across. Same with draw a vertical line and measure left and right.
DONT just get an overall height as you will be way off, especially if tray is slightly bowed ( aren’t they nearly all?) or , heaven forbid, the tray’s not quite level!
If you are in a hurry then leave the packers in, cut them flush with the board with sharp chisel and then just press them back a few mil so they’re hidden by silicone ( you shouldn’t have to do this and I would really advise against siliconing the same day as fixing the boards.)

Platerer's need re=educating, straight edge's, derby's, get it flat man!!

 

[Jim Goodenough]

What do you use to stick the boards with?

Army, (are you dad's army, squaddie, SAS - SBS...,?)
I use Everbuild 'Stixall' £3.10 ish tube or Soudal Fixall £3.50 ish tube (+ VAT)

 

[Ben-gee]

If ceiling is bad you mearsure every 50mm, wow must be a cabinet maker..😀

No, just someone who does a good job and takes pride in their work.

 

[king of pipes]

It would be better to leave it slightly proud of the coving in my opion. I just did one I cad the ceiling In plastic from eurocell as Ben gee's recommendation add j trim to finish it if you just want to do the shower area stick up with silicone and staple the tounge before fixing another board . Cheers Kop

 

[Jim Goodenough]

It would be better to leave it slightly proud of the coving in my opion. I just did one I cad the ceiling In plastic from eurocell as Ben gee's recommendation add j trim to finish it if you just want to do the shower area stick up with silicone and staple the tounge before fixing another board . Cheers Kop

View attachment 39162

View attachment 39163

View attachment 39164

Looks really tidy KOP, what is height of top edge of shower tray 120mm?
Cheers Jim

 

[Jim Goodenough]

By the way we don't use corner (internal or external) anymore, just scribe in by planing and neat silicone bead.

 

[king of pipes]

Sorry Jim have to disagree I like a chrome trim i use them on all my installs looks better and lasts longer in my opion , tray height dunno 100mm ish cant use that stupid plastic effort you get with a riser kit . All the best kop

 

[Scott_D]

What brand do you use and what’s the rough cost per panel @king of pipes

 

[king of pipes]

Splash panel cellular plastic £60 ish a panel (eureocell)
Multi panel marine ply £150 ish a panel (plumbcity)
Regards kop

 

[armyash]

Update - best we could do.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

looks fine ash