Hanging heavy rad on plasterboard wall

[Santini]

I need to hang a 35kg rad (not including water weight when filled) onto a plasterboard wall. It comes with four supporting brackets but the fixings supplied are for a solid wall. Can anyone advise the strongest/best fixings to use to hold this safety in plasterboard?

 

[theanalyst]

I need to hang a 35kg rad (not including water weight when filled) onto a plasterboard wall. It comes with four supporting brackets but the fixings supplied are for a solid wall. Can anyone advise the strongest/best fixings to use to hold this safety in plasterboard?

cant remember what its called but screwfix sell a drywall fixing ratchet tool thing, and some special fasteners to work with it.
That's what I always use into stud walls, if its dot and dabbed it depends if there's adhesive blobs behind where you are fixing the screws but you can just use brown wall plugs and decent length screws if thats the case.

 

[theanalyst]

edit // here you go

http://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/rawlplug-setting-tool/92462

 

[kay-jay]

If your not in a rush hang the brackets as normal but put a squirt of sticks like sh*t all down the back edge of the bracket. Allow to go off and hang rad

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Santini]

Thanks for info, have seen those setting tools and metal fixings. Will be expensive for one off job but think it's the best bet. Will grip fill too I tend to go for the belt and braces approach.
was considering taking out a piece of plasterboard to fit stud support so i could screw brackets into that. Then replace the plasterboard and tile over. Anyone think there's any point in doing this?

 

[R1CKY]

Those Rawlplug fixings are pretty good, I've hung a 40 odd kilo rad off them, filled the system and sat on it (I weigh 90kg!!) and it didn't budge!

 

[erpkid]

With a heavy rad on plasterboard I tend to dismantle the wall where it can't be seen then batten and fill. Takes slightly longer but you know it will hold. Often when you Fein through you find a decent stud too. A little easifil or finishing plaster hides a multitude.

 

[Koogatubac]

U thinking of a molly gun?

U can get umbrella fixings with a max load capacity

OR EVEN BETTER

can you not cut section of plasterboard out and slide a piece of wood in just like you would if you were hanging a boiler on plasterboard wall?

Then screw back the bit of plasterboard and use polyfiller or what not to cover screw heads?
Then they got a easy and strong fixing to mind?

 

[erpkid]

With a heavy rad on plasterboard I tend to dismantle the wall where it can't be seen then batten and fill. Takes slightly longer but you know it will hold. Often when you Fein through you find a decent stud too. A little easifil or finishing plaster hides a multitude.

Also if on first cut you find it is a dabber but no mounts near a dab then make your holes and squidge some gripfil in. Use longer standard fixings to hit the block. Screw up gently and you should be sorted. Best to leave it a bit to allow for curing. I am sure Hilti do some very expensive epoxy thing for this too.

 

[Pipedream]

Recently tried to hang a big traditional 3 column rad in an old stone cottage. Wall was lime plaster on top of stone. Of course there was no solid stone behind the exact point that I needed for the rad bracket, just a large void between stones. Bought a Rawplugs resin kit, never used one before. Despite the instructions being poor and the kit being expensive, it was brilliant. Simply embedded a threaded rod into the resin which completely filled the void. Solid as a rock, excuse the pun. Certainly got me out of a hole - excuse second pun. Despite the cost it saved me hours of work and no worry about the rad coming away when it was filled.

 

[Destroyer2813]

If your tiling over it cut a lump out fix battens and replace p board tile fix rad job done secure fixing and no need to buy a tool for the job

 

[PlumbersMate]

That top screwfix link isn't working for me

 

[Destroyer2813]

[DLMURL="http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Setting+Tool/p49994"]Toolstation > Screws & Fixings > Spit Fixings > Setting Tool[/DLMURL]

 

[Koogatubac]

Mental...

 

[SafeGasInstall]

better to reinforce wall , if its your privet job

 

[JCplumb]

Any kind of fixings in a stud wall will deteriorate over time, in my opinion you need to remove some board and batten where the fixings are going as mentioned above.
I knocked a rad off a stud wall at my mates house earlier this year, it didn't take much to do it.

 

[abelag]

you can still use those umbrella fixings without the setting tool . they have some prongs at the back which dig into the plasterboard to stop it from rotating ,if you keep it pushed in and screw it in clockwise it does the same job as the tool, you then have to take the screw back out put the bracket on and screw it back in.

 

[mike-c]

Whenever I have to use the umbrella fixings I always drill the board first to make sure that the inside of the board is not pushed out whilst pushing the fixing into place. I also put the screw through the rad bracket first then screw it all up in one go. Having the bracket in place at first helps stop the fixing from turning.
I used to have a couple of those ratchet puller things for the fixings but like most really handy things they grew legs somehow and went for a walk!!

 

[AWheating]

i would put some timber in if possible, if not use spring or umbrella fixings.

 

[Howsie]

Umbrella fixings will be fine. You can often use the copper pipe, when bent properly, to take a bit of weight.