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Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

I used to do electrical soldering a while back so I took to it very well, a lot of the welding torches get dropped on the floor by clumsey meatheads which damages the nozzel, learn how to get the right size flame or it wont weld properly

Clean the lead before hand, make plenty of rods and keep them to yourself or they'll be gone!
 
You MUST get the flame right, enough to get a molten pool but not melt straight through the sheet, also dont panic and remove the flame all the time, you need to be confident enough to keep the momentum going. Its much easier working on a piece thats sitting flat on the bench so whenever possible position your piece so that its flat on the bench/board. Momentum is the key, get your molten pool and then keep it moving along adding dabs into the pool as you go, DONT stop, you'll burn through or lose the edge of your sheet, once you get it moving you'll be surprised how quickly you can zip across a piece. Theres not much thats more satisfying than running a really neat lead weld with nice even ripples.
 
I remember doing it at day release college during my apprentiship days, must have put a hole in about 20 sheets of lead before i got it right, we had to make a lead slate for a stack vent.

It's all about getting the flame right, working distance, and hand eye coordination.

Did one stack in 33 years of plumbing after serving a 5 year apprentiship.
Waste of time if you ask me, particularly nowadays.

Most so called plumbers now could'nt wipe a joint if you asked them.
 
Still a craft

I teach at an FE college, and teach lead bossing and welding. Its one of the most difficult techniques to master, don't be too disapointed if you don't get it straight away as i see it its on of the only crafts left in Plumbing,

Preperation is the key 15 mins to set up and prep 2 mins to do the weld.

1. Make sure your work are is clean and tidy and your base is free from stones or grit etc.

2. Clean/shave your lead only 5mm or so each side (keep it straight and uniform, remember the molten lead will keep to the shaved area and look uniform is shaved straight)

3. Clean and shave enough welding rods to complete the task keep then all the same width, again for uniformity.

4. Set the gas pressures on the regulators 0.14-0.2 bar on each is enough.

5. Using a model O torch with a number 2 nozzle, set the flame to
neutral Oxyacetylene.

6. Using a scrap peice of lead hold the flame around 20-15mm away from the lead the lead should form a molten pool in around 2-3 seconds any quicker the flame is too hot (adjust regulator) any longer again adjust regulator to suit. PREP DONE.

7. Tack Each end of your weld to hold it all in place then off you go remebering to keep it steady and uniform.

8. The finished peice should have full penetration and be reinforced, that means your weld should go all the way through the thickness of the lead and the finished weld should have a raised feel to it when you run your finget over it, if the finished weld hasn't got a raised feel to it it is then undercut and weak.

Hope this helps.

Regards

Brian
 
Thanks for all these replys, really appreciated, i confident i will get this one, i have done a bit of welding in the past so at least thats a start hey, does anyone know where i can buy a lead welder, dont want to spend a load of cash on one i just want one that will do the job, and i have been told it will be hard to get the gas, is that true?.......
 
I will try again lets suppose i was to get a job roof flashing and this art of lead welding was to used,where would i get a lead welder and the welding rods and also the gas,struggling to find out what equipment is to be used and where to find it,i was told you could buy rolls of lead but as with the dangers with lead i still not come accross any anywhere........please correct me if theses welders are not called lead welders,there probably another name for them, cheers hope the new year going well for peeps............
 
[DLMURL="http://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/redirector.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.co.uk%2FRothenberger-Micro-Fire-Lead-Fine-Flame-Blow-Torch_W0QQitemZ190258617034QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ%3Fhash%3Ditem190258617034%26_trksid%3Dp3286.c0.m14%26_trkparms%3D72%253A1301%7C66%253A2%7C65%253A12%7C39%253A1%7C240%253A1318"]Rothenberger Micro Fire Lead Fine Flame Blow Torch on eBay, also, Plumbing Tools, Industrial Tools, Business, Office Industrial (end time 08-Feb-09 08:25:26 GMT)[/DLMURL]
 
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You'll get rolls of lead from most roofing or builders merchants and the welding "rods" are simply strips cut from the lead sheet, usually offcuts and end of rolls.
 
Don't buy that micro thing on ebay waste of time and money. You need a Model O saphire welding torch with a couple of size 2 nozzels.

Lead isnt dangerouse unless you eat it regularly
 
I remember doing it at day release college during my apprentiship days, must have put a hole in about 20 sheets of lead before i got it right, we had to make a lead slate for a stack vent.

It's all about getting the flame right, working distance, and hand eye coordination.

Did one stack in 33 years of plumbing after serving a 5 year apprentiship.
Waste of time if you ask me, particularly nowadays.

Most so called plumbers now could'nt wipe a joint if you asked them.

nice to know theres someone as old as me on here like you i did my day release and had to produce roofing in lead copper ally and neuraliteand to this day i dont think ive used any of them except the odd piece of lead

my tutor at tottenham tech was George Blower who wrote the plumbing book that was used by most coledges at the time
Plumbing has been de skilled over the years as have most trades,you dont need much traning to pushfit pipes

my first day as an apprentice i watched the plumber wipe in a 4 inch lead bend on a soil stack he said to me watch this carefully as you'll never see it again and he was right
 
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Hi Steb. There is aerosol type plant that can be purchased for £100-00 it will allow the welding of lead sheet on the bench and flat. However being a plumber who has specialised in sheet lead work and welding, i find them to be limited, as has been suggested Ox/acet, gauges, hoses and model "O" torch are far superior, allowing all aspects welding skills to be mastered. The cost of such would be approx £300-00 plus bottle hire. If you wish to view welded sheet lead products and video on the flashing of chimneys visit http://justlead.co.uk I am in the process of producting DVD/Video on the subject of lead welding, this will be avaliable soon and may well be of intrest. Good Luck
 
nice to know theres someone as old as me on here like you i did my day release and had to produce roofing in lead copper ally and neuraliteand to this day i dont think ive used any of them except the odd piece of lead

my tutor at tottenham tech was George Blower who wrote the plumbing book that was used by most coledges at the time
Plumbing has been de skilled over the years as have most trades,you dont need much traning to pushfit pipes

my first day as an apprentice i watched the plumber wipe in a 4 inch lead bend on a soil stack he said to me watch this carefully as you'll never see it again and he was right

Nice to know that i am not the oldest on here, i did the same day and block release at the Vauxhall College of Building and FE ,i was also taught lead ,copper ,aluminium ,zinc and nuralite sheet roofwork way back in 1984. We were apparently the last year to be taught how to wipe lead joints (burlock fixing tools,remember them) and also to caulk a joint on cast iron soil pipe. We were shown how to solder zinc sheet together using "killed hydrochloric acid" also known as Bakers fluid to clean the zinc and to heat the joint using soldering irons. Plus my favourite was lead bossing and making sand loaded bends in black iron pipe. The plumbing syllabus has had all the art and craft knocked out of it.
 
Re: Still a craft

I teach at an FE college, and teach lead bossing and welding. Its one of the most difficult techniques to master, don't be too disapointed if you don't get it straight away as i see it its on of the only crafts left in Plumbing,

Preperation is the key 15 mins to set up and prep 2 mins to do the weld.

1. Make sure your work are is clean and tidy and your base is free from stones or grit etc.

2. Clean/shave your lead only 5mm or so each side (keep it straight and uniform, remember the molten lead will keep to the shaved area and look uniform is shaved straight)

3. Clean and shave enough welding rods to complete the task keep then all the same width, again for uniformity.

4. Set the gas pressures on the regulators 0.14-0.2 bar on each is enough.

5. Using a model O torch with a number 2 nozzle, set the flame to
neutral Oxyacetylene.

6. Using a scrap peice of lead hold the flame around 20-15mm away from the lead the lead should form a molten pool in around 2-3 seconds any quicker the flame is too hot (adjust regulator) any longer again adjust regulator to suit. PREP DONE.

7. Tack Each end of your weld to hold it all in place then off you go remebering to keep it steady and uniform.

8. The finished peice should have full penetration and be reinforced, that means your weld should go all the way through the thickness of the lead and the finished weld should have a raised feel to it when you run your finget over it, if the finished weld hasn't got a raised feel to it it is then undercut and weak.

Hope this helps.

Regards

Brian
still teaching proper lead work great
 
Lead welding/burning is easy just get a cheap kit. sit down somewhere quiet. and practice
for about 20 years.
Ive been working with lead as a roofer for 39 years now
and can still get it wrong at times.
Some welds can be very hard and take all the skills you have acquired.
But some welding can be easy IF you are shown some basic techniques.
(try searching for some video clips)
Its no good asking lead workers as they see it as a big secret
never to be shown to eanyone.
Get some thick lead code 5 or 6. An Oxy-turbo burning kit from a
roofers merchant. and practice till you stop throwing things at the wall.
Lead work and sheet leadwork are roofing trades.
but used to be plumbing trades as in:
Plumbum latin word for lead as in lead pipe.
Element symbol Pb PlumBum.
Dirived into English as Plumbing, Plumber and Plumb-bob.
Hope this helps.
 
last 4 inch lead wipe two years ago on a listed building in kent great fun i loved it
 
Orrible job! Done even 2 meter wide lead slate, for industrial chimney. And all the usual stuff. Mostly though, we gave it the apprentices to do.

Watch the fumes and don't use too fast or to slow a neutralizing flame it can give off lead fumes.

Which are said to make you mad after about 40 years.

Oh! Aye! Don't forget your bottle of free milk as well! Okay its for galvo but its still nice if you can get it for lead.

All that bossing and bending may not be so bad if the companies give you the time to do it in.
 
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Bernie,

I did a lead slate for a 28" chimney once, not quite as wide as yours, but wide enough, the cheeky dosser of a fitter moaned and dripped for days afterwards, because I had not cut the base of the slate to correspond to the corrugations of the asbestos sheeting, he did not give me the position of the flue, in relation to the roofing sheet
 
lead and asbestos in the same sentence somes it up for me.

im afraid i'm one of the plumbers who has never done sheet lead work, it looks pretty on roof's but in plumbing i just like to rip it out wherever its found.

just me being biased on the theme again, and i do admire the skill involved, i just cant see the future in it, especially teaching it in colleges!

shaun
 
I have found that if you have the knowledge to work on lead pipe to open it up for a branch, or work a knuckle bend, you have more than enough knowledge to apply the same methods and techniques to copper tube

The same applies to lead sheet, to a certain extent when working different metals for roof work, be it copper, zinc or aluminium, if you know how to set out and develop, the weathering upstand for a pipe passing through a roof to make the opening watertight, the principles are just the same whatever the metal used

If you cannot do these simple things you cannot be called a plumber, just a pipe fitter
 
i can see what your saying plousane, just for me i'd call a pro roofer in to sort that out, my plumbing problems are complicated enough without having to worry about the how the lead welding looks under the soil pipe. im not a glazier either.!!

just a plumber, making my life as simple as possible

shaun
 
Yes Plouasne mine was on a brewery boiler stack, if I remember right it was a corrugated asbestos roof as well.

I must admit, although I don't like lead work, but having been an employed Plumber you don't get to pick and choose your jobs very often, so if your given a lead job you have to get on with it, its what you get paid for. And professionalism means you have to make as good a job as your skills allow. Being fair, there isn't really a substitute yet for its shape adaptability.

The likes of Nuralite look terrible after a few years. And copper is hardly ever used.

Its more green mineral felt for large roofs instead of bays and rolls though.

I think people may think lead is going out of use, but a trip down any UK building site still shows plenty of lead flashings and bays are still going up. The green lobby have a point though on its damage to the environment, which makes me think that the minute anything does come along it will be replaced pretty quick
 
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Plouasne i thought you would be the first to remind every body that "plumber" from the Latin and French means worker of lead. I would support the comments on regarding knowledge craft and skill associated with forge bendin, sand loading, joint wiping, bossing etc. 40 years after practising sand loading black iron for bending, i adapted the principal on 110 mm plastic soil (using warm sand) to over come a problem. Our skill evolve not much is brand new.
 
Just lead

I agree with you its the use of your head and the adoption of what you have been taught when using the old materials, to do the same with new materials, but if the youngsters have not been taught how to work with the old materials how are they going to know what to do when it comes to something slightly out of the normal run of work

Bernie,

Have a look at this link below sorry mate, its all in French, but click on to Fiches Techniques, and see how the French plombiers do lead work, most is just about the same as a UK plumber would do the work and some is completely different, and not much "cop" in my opinion, but to get to the "Greens" the producers of the lead sheet are claiming Green credentials, because the lead can be re-cycled back into lead again, also the Zinc over here has both a certain amount of copper (WHAT copper and ZINC do not mix😀) and Titanium in the Zinc, and it lasts, also its almost as soft as lead to fold, rather like the four nines super purity aluminium sheet, that was used in the UK [ I made some dormer cheeks out of the 4 9's stuff, and polished it, did it shine, when the sun hit it, almost blinding]

The link might be of interest to Just Lead as well

Le Plomb Francais Filiale du Groupe Eco-Bat Technologies PLC, 1er producteur mondial de plomb - Accueil

Also click on to Produits, and look at Plomb coule a sable (sand cast lead), and Plomb S M H Special Momument Historique, (special lead for historic buildings) there they show a photo of an historic building re-roofed with 150 tonnes of this lead, the roof was done in 2004

The company will do "stages" training for learning how to work with lead
 
Thanks for the post. i have in fact worked for the Information De plomb. I was asked to do a Tour De France demonstrating welding skills at collages and companions in the N,S,E and West of France. and i must say it was one of the most enjoyable and intresting times of my life.
 
Thanks for the post. i have in fact worked for the Information De plomb. I was asked to do a Tour De France demonstrating welding skills at collages and companions in the N,S,E and West of France. and i must say it was one of the most enjoyable and intresting times of my life.

I bet that you were well looked after, by the Companions ( a brief description of a Companion de France for the people who do not know what a Companion is, like the old journeyman trades person, who did a tour of France learning even more of their trade after an apprenticeship, before settling down in one place) with plenty of wine as well🙂, did you know that the top apprentice plumber of France, a couple of years ago was not French born but UK born, who went to France as a child, it put a slight crimp in Jacques tail when he was introduced to the then President of France😀
 
Hi again.
Couple more interesting facts about lead.
Sheet lead was first used by the Normans.
Lead tiles go back 2,000 years and were used by the romans.
lead was first used 7,000 years ago to contain water ( plumbing)
and to prevent water penetration ( roofing)
Just goes to show the cross over between the two trades (lead sheet and
lead pipe) goes back a long way
 
Hi Ken to add to you facts. It has been thought that the fall of the Roman empire may have been brought about by the fact that the Roman wine maker discovered that lead carbonate (The white powder that forms on the surface) was sweet. They collected with a Roman dust pan and brush and used to fortify their wine. The wine was only available to the ruling classes, who over a relatively short period of time lost the plot and the society collapsed. I bet there are a few plumber on here that have been through the same trip. Not to mention our politicians. Good Luck
 
Throw away your lead working kit - no plumbers do sheet lead now anyway (apart from those 100 year old ones!!!)

Waste of time . . .
 
real plumbers can still do lead work and make a good living out of it ,i can i do and i can do all the new stuff like ,heat pumps ,solar,the use of plastic plumbing etc and i clip all my plastic plumbing properly but then i am a dinasour.not quite a 100 but still able to outwork and out think most young plumbers .do you know avatar if you carry on so stresed you will not live long anougth to be an old plumber all you posts are full of vitriol for older plumbers why???
 
real plumbers can still do lead work and make a good living out of it ,i can i do and i can do all the new stuff like ,heat pumps ,solar,the use of plastic plumbing etc and i clip all my plastic plumbing properly but then i am a dinasour.not quite a 100 but still able to outwork and out think most young plumbers .do you know avatar if you carry on so stresed you will not live long anougth to be an old plumber all you posts are full of vitriol for older plumbers why???

Dave,

Could the reason be for the diatribe that some of the posters are coming out with, is that they cannot do lead work in the first place
 
it is a shame realy but most of the new breed of plumbers cant do lead work,they may think its old hat but lead roofing is makeing a comeback because of its durability.its allways nice to have other areas of expertice to help you stay in work.but i feel avatar has had a bad experience with an older plumber somewhere.or is it that he feels anyone who qualified before him is just not up to it,but then he seems to know best what is rite for all of us ,perhaps he used to be a social worker
 
Hi! Plouasne,

Had a look at the site and it seems good.

The UK one is "The Lead Sheet Association" and the "copperboard" for copper roofing. They have both got interesting information on.

You know the new guys seem rather constricted in the work they can take on, it must be hard for them to make a living only doing bits and pieces.

I don't think anybody quite knows the extent of a Plumbers work. I've been required when installing urinal slabs, to work in toilets without tiles and no set levels, requiring me to set the levels which would eventually correspond with the tile patterns.

I don't suppose it occurs to most people that a Plumber has to know about tiling.

Moving on from there, what about roof constructions? How about having to work out the slate or tile cuts and then cut and fit them, when repairing or replacing lead or other valleys?

The whole area of Plumbing covers all kinds, in point you have virtually got to know how to construct a building from top to bottom. Lead D.P.C are not thrown in they have to be placed in according to the brickwork.

How about electronics and electric?

How about floor construction.

Then the art of making good your work.

How about glazing?

I suppose you could fill a book with what a Plumber is supposed to know about things people don't usually think of as Plumbing?
 
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you can tell a plumber by size of tool bag ,all over trades just their own tools we have ours and everyone elses tools in our bag
 
Hi! Plouasne,

Had a look at the site and it seems good.

The UK one is "The Lead Sheet Association" and the "copperboard" for copper roofing. They have both got interesting information on.

You know the new guys seem rather constricted in the work they can take on, it must be hard for them to make a living only doing bits and pieces.

I don't think anybody quite knows the extent of a Plumbers work. I've been required when installing urinal slabs, to work in toilets without tiles and no set levels, requiring me to set the levels which would eventually correspond with the tile patterns.

I don't suppose it occurs to most people that a Plumber has to know about tiling.

Moving on from there, what about roof constructions? How about having to work out the slate or tile cuts and then cut and fit them, when repairing or replacing lead or other valleys?

The whole area of Plumbing covers all kinds, in point you have virtually got to know how to construct a building from top to bottom. Lead D.P.C are not thrown in they have to be placed in according to the brickwork.

How about electronics and electric?

How about floor construction.

Then the art of making good your work.

How about glazing?

I suppose you could fill a book with what a Plumber is supposed to know about things people don't usually think of as Plumbing?

Bernie,
Please do not talk to me about setting out for tiling, before the tiles were in place, I still have nightmares about setting out a Wade floor gully, and Barbican built into the wall wash hand basins, on the Barbican, there all you had was the rough concrete plus a "Datum" (any new boy knows what a datum is ??, no cheating and looking it up in wikipedia), to set out every thing from, there were no cut tiles in the room allowed, joints in the floor tiles follow the wall tiles, finished job looked bl00dy 'oribal just like a 4" square net had been placed over every thing

I used to have the then CDA booklets also the LDA books, still look at them at times via the web this time

Did you click on to this link as well, and the pictures to bring up the detailed drawings, one of the few things both sides of the channel agree on, on how it should be done
Le Plomb Francais Filiale du Groupe Eco-Bat Technologies PLC, 1er producteur mondial de plomb - Pour l'habitat ...

I did do a lead DPC on a couple of jobs for Cornwall C C, plus quite a bit of lead work for flat roofs and flashings, one that comes to mind was an architectural feature ??, what a co ck up, imagine a steel framed building, brick clad with a roof recessed at 45°between the top of the ground floor window and the first floor slab, along one side of the building for about 60 feet in length, all lead covered with "slates" to go around the steel uprights, supposed to be lead burnt, only thing wrong was that the steel had to be painted in intumisscent (sp) paint first, we were allowed to use a double lock welt at the back of the slate with the sole of the slate "burnt" to the lead covering, we must have been doing something right, because when my mate told the architect to get his big feet off the rolls of the roof he was standing on, both he and the C of W apologised
The building was a bit of a farce in other ways as well, somebody did not check the drawings before being issued to site and steel frame maker, because the steel uprights came straight in front of opening windows in some places, in other places it was the sway braces, levels were all out as well, the steel stanchion bases were at finished floor level, instead of being at sub base level

Electrics, I wonder how many check that nice plastic water main they are going to cut in to, is an actual water main and not some bodged sparks electrical conduit

Flooring, I was on a timber frame job once all floor were of the cassette type, made in a factory, and craned into place, could not lift the ply flooring to get the 1" flow and return in from a solid fuel boiler on the ground floor to the cylinder on the first floor, C of W gave written instructions to notch the under side of the joists (I made sure that the instruction was in writing before I did any notching of the joists, [that's called covering your back]), every dammed pipe in a block of 6 houses looked like a sparge pipe after the plasterboard tackers had finnished

Glazing, well I got the sack for this, and black listed, I was told to go and fit a sheet of Georgian wired glass to a roof of a conservatory, by my self, when I asked how big the sheet was they said 8 x 4 I said inches that's OK, No they said feet, that's when I told them that I would put it in with the lump hammer I had in my hand, straight through the middle of it. I got work with another firm about a month later the supervisor turned up on site said to the site agent that he had stacks of work did not know where to turn for plumbers saw me and said you, your finished, I asked anything wrong with my work?, no just don't want you, your a trouble maker
 
sparge pipes try not to confuse people. who could tell you what one was ,youl be talking of spruse-thrower pass-over units next
 
sparge pipes try not to confuse people. who could tell you what one was ,youl be talking of spruse-thrower pass-over units next
ok curiosity has got the better of me google turns up nothing what is a spruse thrower?

plumbers we are all trouble makers,i think it is the nature of the job
about twenty years ago i was on a job in victoria it was state of the art technology everything was computer generated the only part of the build left up was the front and a complete steel frame was erected behind
Each steel was numbered and had pre drilled holes for all services so we locate hole numer 27 and start running pipework through only to meet an electrician comming the other way several hours of site meetings later it was realised that there were two set of drawings in circulation each being the mirrow image of each other so half the steels were laid back to front needlesss to say this was only realised after the concreete had been laid

Same job we had to run temp water supplies to each floor for the sprays to keep dust down during the demolition so again state of the art spec
inch and a quarte plastic water mains trace heating armour flex lagging and neoprene water proofing
two days later were called back as its leaking like a sieve turns out the labourers had turned of the water and drained it as it was near freezing stats kicked in trace heating came one and melted the pipes
 
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The job described by Steve (above), is a symptom of to-days age
When I was a junior design engineer for Wheeler Crittal Berry, every drawing that was produced for the plumbing, was sent to every other trade concerned, for approval before being issued to site, as a working drawing, the usual list was Architect, Client, Structural Engineers, Fire services (sprinklers), Electrical, Heating
One job, I had to draw @ 1/4" to 1' was for a range of 3 W/C's with the C/I "float " passing under a deep beam, I started to do a standard centre line only drawing but was told to draw it showing the socket, and spigot with the bead etc, when done this way it worked out that the last pan piece on the run needed the bead to be cut of the pan piece, and this was used as a "soldier" in the socket of the first branch on the float, my senior engineer said its as I thought, they said it would not work
Athenium Court Club in Piccadilly London, all soil stacks in cast iron with copper floats, this was the time of change from imperial to metric, all the different bossed pipes in cast iron were drawn, with a notation that they were to be made for metric sized copper, all the stacks were up when it came time to fit the copper floats, none fitted, because Allied Iron founders had ignored the notation on the drawings and sent out bossed pipes for 4" copper
Later on in life, the triangular island between Colliers wood station and Merton bus garage, was being redeveloped, walking home one night there was water flooding from the site where they had been deep pile drilling, fire brigade was there, water was more than 6" deep over the road, which the fire brigade was trying to pump away, I asked a fireman what had happened, he said that he thought that the pileing rig had hit an underground spring, which was flooding the site, I pointed to the "tomb stone" indicator beside us, saying that I thought that it was the ring main that Thames water had built, then pointed to the draw off station on the opposite side of the road, when that was shut off the flooding stopped
 
.All hail the Plumbarii Forum. or Hi Plumbers.

Plumbarii was what the romans called there workers with lead.
Hi Just lead. The bit about the romans. Lead was definitely the downfall of the roman
aristocracy. They used to boil down unfermented grape juice (must) To form a sweet
syrup. But only the rich could afford lead lined bronze pots. the lead added to the sweetness
but resulted in lead poisoning (plumbism).
The poisoning aswell as sending them gaga made the men sterile and the women infertile
and birth defects.
The poor just used bronze pots but these gave off copper rust which spoiled the flavour.

Copper rust turned the wine acid ( vinegar).
----------
To the youngsters out there that think we are a bunch of dinosaurs with out of date
knowhow and skills. i think your great.
you can learn in 6 weeks what took use 20 years.
You know all the new technologies and modern materials (PLASTIC)

How many times have i heard the words "this is the future".
If you youngsters want to know what your future is. look at your past and try learning
something from it, not all buildings are brand new.

From a dinosaur Roofer. or dinosaur Plumbarii
 
Hi Ken this post has gone on far enough. However one thing i did find interesting, was the result of lead in blood tests carried out by my occupational doctor. On the results coming back we discussed the figures, he was amazed at the data, saying "Having carried out these tests on folk living in major cities who do not work with lead. I am amazed yours is lower" Its either they mixed up the samples or we are all in the brown stuff/ Good Luck
 
Hi Just lead i agree long enough.

You can lead a horse to water,
but a church roofs got to be lead.
 
when getting flame right 1st set pressures on both gases the same and look for the perfect cone in flame picture, if outdoors i tend to tweak the flame slightly to compensate for atmospheric conditions if a damp overcast day, thus giving a clean puddle of molten lead as you make the weld. however this does take years of experience to master especialy if welding vertically in position
 
i have a micro set lead torch but finding it hard to get a low enough flame heat ?, says in the notes with it pressures down to 0.1 to 0.4 bar, well ive never seen a regulator go down that low its working well out the nominal scope of the reg and it pulses the flame.
i used to do it 30 years ago and want to start again but just cant get low temp, can you advise.
Mick
 
Is a model O blowpipe, 0.1 to 0.34 bar & Nozzle start from O - 5
theres not a regukator on earth goes down to this pressure so wonder how everyone else achives it. I use oxyaxetalene by the way.
 
Hi.
0.1 bar is approx. 1.5 Pound per square inch, 0.34 about 5 psi. It very low pressure using Oxy just hold the nozzle over the back of your hand, turn on you will feel the breeze. Mimic that feeling with Acet. Once happy at even pressures, turn off and on with acet, light it and add oxy until you establish a neutral flame.
Good Luck
 
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Justlead1 are your videos still available to watch? Think I saw them before and was impressed with the work. I had to remove some lead circs recently must have been nearly 100 years old, absolutely perfect wiped joints, it was actually a shame to have to remove them, they were in the way for new copper, as said before it's crying shame that this work isn't still taught.
 
Err! Lead circs. Horrible job climbing half up a chimney to thread them through to the cylinder in the bedroom or over fire cupboard, getting covered in soot and spiting it out for hours after. Glad we have moved on. Wiping joints can be fun but not if your in a hurry. And 3/4" 9lb is heavy stuff to haul about let alone try and straighten it from a coil. Bent bolts, shave hooks, branch augers, tampins, mallets, bloc black, pipe clamps, D type bar solder tallow and wiping clothes should remain where they are in the past. But they are still better than plastic. 🙂 🙂
 
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I have only one important thing to say with lead welding:

CLEANLINESS!!

Any oxide film, muck or grease and you are wasting your time.

oh, and lots of practice........
 

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