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manlyman46

Hi guys, I have spent days getting prepared to remove a radiator. Have watched youtube vids, got a list of step-by-step instructions, some really good information from this forum and am all ready to go... and I have fallen at first hurdle!!! Everyone says the lockshield cap just pulls off. This was doesn't. It's not a pointy cap, it is plastic but has a + and - on it. I tried giving it a gentle pull to see if it will come off, but I don't want to brute force it just in case there is another clever way - though can't see how. There is a TRV on the other side. The radiators are old - not sure how old. This one hasn't been used since we moved in, as it had been painted and when we turned it on it stank, so it needs to go. Initially I just want to get it off the wall, as I am removing skirting boards, and have a plasterer coming in a day or so. Will get a pro in to move pipework and fix a new radiator in different part of the room at a later date, there are other radiators to be replaced so will have it all done at same time.

Here is a pic of valve, which I am assuming is a 'lockshield' as there is a TVR on other side - it moves freely in either direction, but doesn't seem to come off, at least not easily.

IMG_1491.jpg


This is the TRV on the other side

IMG_1492.jpg

I'm ready to go, if I can get started - thanks for any help 🙂
 
Turn it all the way fully clockwise to shut off, be warned with the age of those valves they may leak once disturbed.

Thanks for quick reply!

Should I still be looking to pull the plastic cap off? Or just leave in the minus position all the way clockwise?
 
No you can turn the spindle with the White cap (like a normal tap)

I've just pulled it off. Noticed my other radiators had the same valve and they came off easily, so approached it with more determination.

Here is my step-by-step plan is there anything glaringly wrong with this?

1. TURN OFF CENTRAL HEATING
2. PREPARE AREA FOR SPILLAGE
3. CLOSE THERMOSTATIC VALVE BY HAND,
4. CLOSE LOCK-SHIELD VALVE
5. WITH BOWL UNDER RADIATOR THERMOSTAT (RIGHT SIDE), UNDO UNIVERSAL NUT BY TURNING AWAY FROM YOU, SUPPORTING STAND-UP PIPE
6. WATER WILL START TO DRAIN OUT SLOWLY - OPEN AIR BLEED VALVE TO SPEED UP
7. CLOSE AIR BLEED TO PAUSE WATER WHILE EMPTYING OUT CONTAINER (OR NIP WASHER)
8. WHEN EMPTY, REPEAT ON OTHER SIDE, UNDOING UNION NUT BY TURNING TOWARDS YOU (ASSUMING THIS IS LEFT SIDE), SUPPORTING STAND-UP PIPE
9. WHEN EMPTY CLOSE AIR BLEED AND PLUG ENDS IF POSSIBLE
10. REMOVE FROM WALL BRACKETS, LIFTING UP AND FORWARDS - IF ENDS OPEN, TILT TO SIDE TO REMOVE REMAINING WATER INTO CONTAINER
11.TIP RADIATOR UPSIDE DOWN TO PREVENT LEAKS WHILE MOVING
12. BLANK OFF END OF THERMOSTATIC PIPE WITH FEMALE CAP. LOCK SHIELD WILL HOLD.
13. CENTRAL HEATING CAN CONTINUE AS NORMAL, BUT CHECK BOILER FOR CHANGE IN PRESSURE, AND RE-PRESSURISE IF NECESSARY

Thanks if you are still reading this!
 
Sounds fine just need to be careful when undoing nuts as you might turn the valves and I would put a blank on the lockshield as well but other than that you should be fine might need another pair of hands if big rad
 
Appreciate the feedback Shaun. I have an extra pair of hands on standby now so am going to give it a go!
 
Really? I would have put money on that trv not holding.
 

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