re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
Yes, I hear this tool exists. Wouldn't trust pushfit on chrome ever though!
Yes, I hear this tool exists. Wouldn't trust pushfit on chrome ever though!
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Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
When replacing a soil stack in the Liverpool School Of Tropical Medicine remember to turn that 15mm isolation valve in the snake room back on which was discharging into the stack - it's part of some weird humidity control system which keeps the snakes alive which in turn are essential to the anti-venom research.
Yup, I almost killed all the snakes because I forgot I'd turned it off.
When replacing a soil stack in the Liverpool School Of Tropical Medicine remember to turn that 15mm isolation valve in the snake room back on which was discharging into the stack - it's part of some weird humidity control system which keeps the snakes alive which in turn are essential to the anti-venom research.
Yup, I almost killed all the snakes because I forgot I'd turned it off.
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re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
here here how many times has this been the after thought... gutted and thirsty lol
here here how many times has this been the after thought... gutted and thirsty lol
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
How many times have you took off a sink trap and asked someone to tip it down the sink while you're still under it?
Me - 3 times!
How many times have you took off a sink trap and asked someone to tip it down the sink while you're still under it?
Me - 3 times!
K
Kimou
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
Remember to put the pipe you just cut out with the hole in it far away from you.
I was replacing the pipe after it had been screwed through and thought 'oh, look at that. This piece fits nicely. Lucky me.'
Recommissioned the system and flooded the downstairs flat.
Remember to put the pipe you just cut out with the hole in it far away from you.
I was replacing the pipe after it had been screwed through and thought 'oh, look at that. This piece fits nicely. Lucky me.'
Recommissioned the system and flooded the downstairs flat.
G
GasMark1
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
yeah i got one , its just like a scoreing tool, you push the pipe in hold the nail type bit against the pipe ....job done,
i got it off a rep at a trade show with PTS, just asked him for the set ab
nd he gave me it at the end
yeah i got one , its just like a scoreing tool, you push the pipe in hold the nail type bit against the pipe ....job done,
i got it off a rep at a trade show with PTS, just asked him for the set ab
nd he gave me it at the end
P
pimp
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
Once you have eliminated all the obvious whatever is left, no matter how unlikely is probably the answer.
Once you have eliminated all the obvious whatever is left, no matter how unlikely is probably the answer.
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
Top banana! Hate those little beggers!!
Top banana! Hate those little beggers!!
B
boabgti
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
dont buy rothernberg strips you can get a whole roll of this mesh from toolstation for a few quid and cut it up
dont buy rothernberg strips you can get a whole roll of this mesh from toolstation for a few quid and cut it up
T
Toxic Ted
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
Always remember to leave the cistern full when emptying a cst...........saves the red face when the owner uses the dunny after you dumped a richard...........doesnt smell like fresh cut grass either.
Always remember to leave the cistern full when emptying a cst...........saves the red face when the owner uses the dunny after you dumped a richard...........doesnt smell like fresh cut grass either.
R
REDSAW
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
when changing a diverter valve on a vaillant turbomax, after draining the primarys whilst talking to the customer..dont forget to switch off the main cold feed before removing the diverter valve..lol
when changing a diverter valve on a vaillant turbomax, after draining the primarys whilst talking to the customer..dont forget to switch off the main cold feed before removing the diverter valve..lol
L
lame plumber
B
Bunker
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
If trying to take apart a seized brass fitting, heat it with blow lamp then dunk in cold water - the expansion and sudden retraction will usually free up the seizure.
If trying to take apart a seized brass fitting, heat it with blow lamp then dunk in cold water - the expansion and sudden retraction will usually free up the seizure.
B
Barry98
B
Bunker
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
If you are a scrap peasant like me, once you've stripped the insulation off a HW cylinder (btw Im about to try a wire saw for this purpose) - use an angle grinder and thin cutting disc to cut the welded joints off then cut the coil out and tada - you have twice the value in bright and a little bit of brazings..instead of the regular cylinder price.
If you are a scrap peasant like me, once you've stripped the insulation off a HW cylinder (btw Im about to try a wire saw for this purpose) - use an angle grinder and thin cutting disc to cut the welded joints off then cut the coil out and tada - you have twice the value in bright and a little bit of brazings..instead of the regular cylinder price.
N
neily01
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
Nice tip Spock lol just waiting for its only logical!
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re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
so what do you get for a cylinder bunker
so what do you get for a cylinder bunker
B
Bunker
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
Depends on size but often its about £25 for one with insulation, maybe £45 with no insulation but youd expect about £55 for the same size if cut up. I cut all my copper up anyway to separate bright from brazings, so grinder already out and turning. I do this on a sunny sunday afternoon and strangely enjoy it...sad eh!
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
I do exactly that. It is strangely satisfying.
I do exactly that. It is strangely satisfying.
K
kay-jay
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
i would find a better scrappy! ask around about the prices paid. my scrappy only pays an extra 10p per kg for 'bright' than he does for mixed brazed imo it is not worth the faff
i would find a better scrappy! ask around about the prices paid. my scrappy only pays an extra 10p per kg for 'bright' than he does for mixed brazed imo it is not worth the faff
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
£3.9 per kilo here for mix copper and some brass with it
£3.9 per kilo here for mix copper and some brass with it
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
Always charge the customer for absolutely everything, & i mean everything.
some customers will waste your time by asking alot of dumb & stupid questions, you dont have to accept this sort of thing.
the other day, someone phoned me and asked, How much do you charge ?, i said to him, i charge £300 to answer 3 questions, he said to me, That's abit steep isn't it ?, so i said yes it is, And what's your 3rd question ?
you need to be absolutely ruthless in this game, dont let the brass-tards walk all over you.
Always charge the customer for absolutely everything, & i mean everything.
some customers will waste your time by asking alot of dumb & stupid questions, you dont have to accept this sort of thing.
the other day, someone phoned me and asked, How much do you charge ?, i said to him, i charge £300 to answer 3 questions, he said to me, That's abit steep isn't it ?, so i said yes it is, And what's your 3rd question ?
you need to be absolutely ruthless in this game, dont let the brass-tards walk all over you.
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
How to repair a leaking Essex flange
For some reason, Essex flanges come with pathetic rubber washers which seem designed to perish after about 5 years.
I come across this quite a bit and have developed a technique for repairing them.
Firstly drain down the cylinder to below the level of the flange, and gripping the tail of the flange, unscrew the nut about 10mm and clean out the remains of the perished washers and the exposed thread so the nut can screw freely backwards and forwards.
Take some lengths of hemp and paste them up with Boss White or Hawk White. Screw the nut back on so that the flat washer is about 3mm off the face of the cylinder and disconnect any pipework to it so you can get your hand round it.
Centralise the flange in the hole and wrap the hemp tightly around the flange between the cylinder and the flat washer. Try to push the wound hemp along the thread into the cylinder using the flat washer, build up so you have filled the entire space between the cylinder and washer and have excess hemp wound past the washer.
Carefully hold the end of the Essex Flange with grips and with a large spanner wind the nut back tightly onto the cylinder to compress the hemp and paste as tightly as it will go. It needs to be VERY tight.
Reassemble, fill with water and allow water to heat up. Occasionally you may need to repeat the process again if you are slightly off-centre in the hole.
Once the hemp and paste has set, you've got no chance of redoing the joint without cutting it out and using a new Essex flange.
I tend to assemble new Essex flanges this way instead of using the washers that come with them.
A similar technique can be employed for repairing leaking coil connections on a cylinder.
How to repair a leaking Essex flange
For some reason, Essex flanges come with pathetic rubber washers which seem designed to perish after about 5 years.
I come across this quite a bit and have developed a technique for repairing them.
Firstly drain down the cylinder to below the level of the flange, and gripping the tail of the flange, unscrew the nut about 10mm and clean out the remains of the perished washers and the exposed thread so the nut can screw freely backwards and forwards.
Take some lengths of hemp and paste them up with Boss White or Hawk White. Screw the nut back on so that the flat washer is about 3mm off the face of the cylinder and disconnect any pipework to it so you can get your hand round it.
Centralise the flange in the hole and wrap the hemp tightly around the flange between the cylinder and the flat washer. Try to push the wound hemp along the thread into the cylinder using the flat washer, build up so you have filled the entire space between the cylinder and washer and have excess hemp wound past the washer.
Carefully hold the end of the Essex Flange with grips and with a large spanner wind the nut back tightly onto the cylinder to compress the hemp and paste as tightly as it will go. It needs to be VERY tight.
Reassemble, fill with water and allow water to heat up. Occasionally you may need to repeat the process again if you are slightly off-centre in the hole.
Once the hemp and paste has set, you've got no chance of redoing the joint without cutting it out and using a new Essex flange.
I tend to assemble new Essex flanges this way instead of using the washers that come with them.
A similar technique can be employed for repairing leaking coil connections on a cylinder.
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re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
will a roll of ptfe not do the job ? never had to repair one so that is why I am asking
will a roll of ptfe not do the job ? never had to repair one so that is why I am asking
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
not for use on potable water but then who drinks hot water
not for use on potable water but then who drinks hot water
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
PTFE won't work as you wouldn't be able to get it tight enough, and hemp and paste seals better. Hot water systems are classed as non-potable.
It's actually not that hard to do it the way I have described. You could replace the washer as Kay-Jay suggests but I consider hemp and paste a better means of permanently sealing it.
In the past when I haven't had an Essex flange handy, I have on occasion simply soldered a tank outlet connector onto the cylinder and if soldered properly it'll never come off.
PTFE won't work as you wouldn't be able to get it tight enough, and hemp and paste seals better. Hot water systems are classed as non-potable.
It's actually not that hard to do it the way I have described. You could replace the washer as Kay-Jay suggests but I consider hemp and paste a better means of permanently sealing it.
In the past when I haven't had an Essex flange handy, I have on occasion simply soldered a tank outlet connector onto the cylinder and if soldered properly it'll never come off.
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Mike Jackson
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
Hot water is still potable, and some people do drink it.
Hot water is still potable, and some people do drink it.
R
R1CKY
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
When you remove a part from a boiler, smash it to pieces! No way of mistaking it with a serviceable part!
A small piece of 15mm copper crimped at one end and a pushfit cap end at the other makes a great container for your flux brush!
When you remove a part from a boiler, smash it to pieces! No way of mistaking it with a serviceable part!
A small piece of 15mm copper crimped at one end and a pushfit cap end at the other makes a great container for your flux brush!
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
when replacing a part on a combi and you need to drain it,once you have drained it repressurise the expansion vessel as the vessel usually is holding a little water and carrys on dribbling out
when replacing a part on a combi and you need to drain it,once you have drained it repressurise the expansion vessel as the vessel usually is holding a little water and carrys on dribbling out
W
Whyme
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
Id like to say too any young plumbers, dont be afraid of taking on new challenges and dont get stuck in a rut doing the same thing day in day out. variety variety. do as many outlandish jobs you can and go on as many manufacturers courses as possible cos youll end up a well rounded plumber....speech over.
Id like to say too any young plumbers, dont be afraid of taking on new challenges and dont get stuck in a rut doing the same thing day in day out. variety variety. do as many outlandish jobs you can and go on as many manufacturers courses as possible cos youll end up a well rounded plumber....speech over.
R
RPG 80
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
After turning the power off on a Ultracom 2 CXi, make sure you reselect the hot water mode, as on restarting the boiler will run in heating mode only. Causing you to get recalled through 15 miles of rush hour traffic to push a button.
After turning the power off on a Ultracom 2 CXi, make sure you reselect the hot water mode, as on restarting the boiler will run in heating mode only. Causing you to get recalled through 15 miles of rush hour traffic to push a button.
B
Bunker
When taking rads off the wall, shut both ends, undo from valve and lob a 1/2 or 3/4 compression cap onto the tail and do up. Then do other end. Voila, no need to drain in the house and can be carried out with no fear of dripping sludge.
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
Don't leave bits of kit you have replaced lying around at the customer's place as it's bad practice. One local engineer I come across seems to leave debris and junk with customers and today I was presented with a shoebox of worn out oil pumps, used flexi hoses, nozzles, bust control box, broken solenoid etc. Fair enough if something still functions (such as an old nozzle, but only one), leave it there, but otherwise If you replace something faulty, show it to the customer and ask if they would like you to dispose of or recycle it for them. If they say they want to keep it, fair enough, otherwise take your junk away with you.
It is one of my main pet hates, tradesmen leaving junk for me to clear away, whether they be electricians, joiners, plumbers etc. Wire trimmings, rubble etc swept under floorboards really annoys me. I only use tradesmen for my own jobs who are tidy.
In industry for commercial work, it is an absolute no-no to leave junk on site and if you do so, the customer will take a dim view of it. Domestic is no different. There's also a potential liability risk if you leave a broken component and someone later tries it and something goes wrong, they could blame you.
On another note, as a previous post has said, make it obvious what you take off is useless by breaking it so it can't get mixed up with good stuff again. I always bend old immersion heater stats in half for example as soon as I take them out.
I worked in a printing works once. In the past, a plumber had left a short pipe offcut on a gantry which months later had accidentally been knocked off and fell into a printing press, causing thousands of pounds worth of damage.
Don't leave bits of kit you have replaced lying around at the customer's place as it's bad practice. One local engineer I come across seems to leave debris and junk with customers and today I was presented with a shoebox of worn out oil pumps, used flexi hoses, nozzles, bust control box, broken solenoid etc. Fair enough if something still functions (such as an old nozzle, but only one), leave it there, but otherwise If you replace something faulty, show it to the customer and ask if they would like you to dispose of or recycle it for them. If they say they want to keep it, fair enough, otherwise take your junk away with you.
It is one of my main pet hates, tradesmen leaving junk for me to clear away, whether they be electricians, joiners, plumbers etc. Wire trimmings, rubble etc swept under floorboards really annoys me. I only use tradesmen for my own jobs who are tidy.
In industry for commercial work, it is an absolute no-no to leave junk on site and if you do so, the customer will take a dim view of it. Domestic is no different. There's also a potential liability risk if you leave a broken component and someone later tries it and something goes wrong, they could blame you.
On another note, as a previous post has said, make it obvious what you take off is useless by breaking it so it can't get mixed up with good stuff again. I always bend old immersion heater stats in half for example as soon as I take them out.
I worked in a printing works once. In the past, a plumber had left a short pipe offcut on a gantry which months later had accidentally been knocked off and fell into a printing press, causing thousands of pounds worth of damage.
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re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
the flarer nis good for pipes that have been frozen youll not get those in a compression coupling
the flarer nis good for pipes that have been frozen youll not get those in a compression coupling
P
plum ber
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
When adding inhibitor or cleaner to a system, shut off both sides drain a few litres or so then use a 15mm compression elbow in the top of the rad to pour inn your chemicals...
When adding inhibitor or cleaner to a system, shut off both sides drain a few litres or so then use a 15mm compression elbow in the top of the rad to pour inn your chemicals...
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
also get 15 to 28 reducer and solder it to a bit of 15mm and here is your funnel 🙂
Male to copper elbow 🙂
also get 15 to 28 reducer and solder it to a bit of 15mm and here is your funnel 🙂
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
I did mean to use compression when you have imperial pipe work and want to convert to metrick Steve ! However I don't know after a pipes base been fleared how do you join them ?
F
fogarty
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
To people in the know this is probably obvious but to me it's not, how does the 15mm elbow connect to the top of the rad?
W
Whyme
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
i meant to solder especially where ya cant get at it again, the only prob with comp is that 3/4 to 22mm is proper baggy and needs to be tightend to death.
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Whyme
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
it only works on compact style rads with a 15mm bleed point/ plug you can remove Look back i posted a similar one to use a bent f/i and auto airvent body
it only works on compact style rads with a 15mm bleed point/ plug you can remove Look back i posted a similar one to use a bent f/i and auto airvent body
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
No No No!!!
Never use a 22mm olive on 3/4" pipe as you must use a 3/4" olive on 3/4" pipe.
If you simply try and bodge and screw up a 22mm one tight or there's a good chance it will leak or the joint won't be tight when fully screwed up.
If you want to flare the pipe, heat the pipe end until really hot and allow to cool down naturally so as to soften it and leave it less likely to split when flared.
No No No!!!
Never use a 22mm olive on 3/4" pipe as you must use a 3/4" olive on 3/4" pipe.
If you simply try and bodge and screw up a 22mm one tight or there's a good chance it will leak or the joint won't be tight when fully screwed up.
If you want to flare the pipe, heat the pipe end until really hot and allow to cool down naturally so as to soften it and leave it less likely to split when flared.
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Whyme
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
behave how many new plumbers keep 3/4 olives on their vans. a 22mm comp fitting will make a good seal if tightened enough and its not a bodge by any stretch of the imagination....like i said use flaring kit if you havent got end feed converters solder all the way...
behave how many new plumbers keep 3/4 olives on their vans. a 22mm comp fitting will make a good seal if tightened enough and its not a bodge by any stretch of the imagination....like i said use flaring kit if you havent got end feed converters solder all the way...
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M
Mike Jackson
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
It is a bodge. 22mm olives will not tighten properly onto 3/4 pipe. They are not designed for it, should there be a leak you will be held entirely responsible for using an inappropriate fitting. There are lots of things that new plumbers may not have on their vans but that is not an excuse for not doing the job properly. When you've turned up to a job, fitted a new boiler, fired it up and a fitting has blown off the other side of the house because it is a 22 fitting bodged onto 3/4 pipe you will know what a bodge it is.
It is a bodge. 22mm olives will not tighten properly onto 3/4 pipe. They are not designed for it, should there be a leak you will be held entirely responsible for using an inappropriate fitting. There are lots of things that new plumbers may not have on their vans but that is not an excuse for not doing the job properly. When you've turned up to a job, fitted a new boiler, fired it up and a fitting has blown off the other side of the house because it is a 22 fitting bodged onto 3/4 pipe you will know what a bodge it is.
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
I always have 3/4" olives and 1" olives in my van as do my other plumber mates. A 22mm olive is a bodge. Crimp them up and there's a good chance they will crease and not seal properly or blow off - I have come across this after other "plumbers" have been on site. Exactly the same way as you don't try and solder a 22mm fitting onto 3/4" pipe but use a 22 x 3/4 reducer.
These details and others like them make the difference between a bodger and an expert.
I always have 3/4" olives and 1" olives in my van as do my other plumber mates. A 22mm olive is a bodge. Crimp them up and there's a good chance they will crease and not seal properly or blow off - I have come across this after other "plumbers" have been on site. Exactly the same way as you don't try and solder a 22mm fitting onto 3/4" pipe but use a 22 x 3/4 reducer.
These details and others like them make the difference between a bodger and an expert.
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re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
I cranked up a 22mm compression fitting onto an 3/4 bit of pipe the other week as it was the discharge from an unvented. So no pressure will ever be on the joint.
I would never do it on a joint that's under pressure, as its a bodge. Adapters are pence.
I cranked up a 22mm compression fitting onto an 3/4 bit of pipe the other week as it was the discharge from an unvented. So no pressure will ever be on the joint.
I would never do it on a joint that's under pressure, as its a bodge. Adapters are pence.
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
i have some 3/4" olives and 3/4" to 22mm solder couplings along with slips couplings in an old small swarfega pot in the van , this way i never try to use them on normal 22mm pipe an think they ar faulty 22mm couplers and chuck then in the scrap box!
i have some 3/4" olives and 3/4" to 22mm solder couplings along with slips couplings in an old small swarfega pot in the van , this way i never try to use them on normal 22mm pipe an think they ar faulty 22mm couplers and chuck then in the scrap box!
B
Bunker
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
When removing rads:
(Assuming you've prepared the system appropriately and have your old towels under the valves etc)..
Have a couple of male compression caps at hand (1/2 or 3/4 dependng) and, once the rad is undone from the valve, gently separate and lob the cap in between, then do your rad-side nut up. No need to drain inside the house, no leakage, just carry outside and empty there. (obviously this will make the rad heavier so this will only work if its a smallish rad, or if there are 2 of you, or if you look like Croppie and can lift one in each hand...🙂)
When removing rads:
(Assuming you've prepared the system appropriately and have your old towels under the valves etc)..
Have a couple of male compression caps at hand (1/2 or 3/4 dependng) and, once the rad is undone from the valve, gently separate and lob the cap in between, then do your rad-side nut up. No need to drain inside the house, no leakage, just carry outside and empty there. (obviously this will make the rad heavier so this will only work if its a smallish rad, or if there are 2 of you, or if you look like Croppie and can lift one in each hand...🙂)
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
When soldering and a fitting is in a tight place, heat the pipe further down from the fitting and then solder
When soldering and a fitting is in a tight place, heat the pipe further down from the fitting and then solder
W
Whyme
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
If your in a pickle with a mildly scuffed rad get a small tub of white combined T cut and polish works a treat as long as its not too deep and will last you years..( disclaimer the right thing to do would be replace rad but hey ho).
If your in a pickle with a mildly scuffed rad get a small tub of white combined T cut and polish works a treat as long as its not too deep and will last you years..( disclaimer the right thing to do would be replace rad but hey ho).
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
When fitting a fluidmaster dual flush drop valve into a WC with a 2 inch cistern hole and therefore using the supplied 2 inch seal, keep the foam washer that it comes fitted with - they are better than the thin rubber ones which come with normal handle operated syphons.
While on the subject had anyone tried the handle operated fluidmaster dual flush valves (not flapper type)? Wondering if they were as reliable and the classic...
When fitting a fluidmaster dual flush drop valve into a WC with a 2 inch cistern hole and therefore using the supplied 2 inch seal, keep the foam washer that it comes fitted with - they are better than the thin rubber ones which come with normal handle operated syphons.
While on the subject had anyone tried the handle operated fluidmaster dual flush valves (not flapper type)? Wondering if they were as reliable and the classic...
B
Bunker
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
They are good, and a life saver if you're in a tight spot. However I've since gone back to grips for pump unions. Haven't pulled the pump spanner out in months. Simply as I have the grips in the tool box I carry onto a job and the bloody great big pump spanner is in the tool tub in the van.
They are good, and a life saver if you're in a tight spot. However I've since gone back to grips for pump unions. Haven't pulled the pump spanner out in months. Simply as I have the grips in the tool box I carry onto a job and the bloody great big pump spanner is in the tool tub in the van.
B
Bunker
COMPLAINT:
I've not been around the forum for long but having been reading it including this section, I have increasingly found my work is suffering. For example, on your appalling advice, I bought a wet n dry vacuum and have used it so many times its getting embarrassing, so much stuff is alot easier and taking LESS TIME! How am I supposed to string these jobs out now? Plus, I keep reading it like now when I should be working. It's an outrage.
I've not been around the forum for long but having been reading it including this section, I have increasingly found my work is suffering. For example, on your appalling advice, I bought a wet n dry vacuum and have used it so many times its getting embarrassing, so much stuff is alot easier and taking LESS TIME! How am I supposed to string these jobs out now? Plus, I keep reading it like now when I should be working. It's an outrage.
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
tell customers to put harpic blue block in cisters of leaking toilets, had loads this year and turned out to be condesation , couldent believe it was so much water, if the base of the toilet or the flush pipe or doughnut washer is leaking you will see the blue mark from the leak , very handy if it is a very small leak, or for customers in social housing that just want a new toilet because its "leaking" when its really just condensation!
tell customers to put harpic blue block in cisters of leaking toilets, had loads this year and turned out to be condesation , couldent believe it was so much water, if the base of the toilet or the flush pipe or doughnut washer is leaking you will see the blue mark from the leak , very handy if it is a very small leak, or for customers in social housing that just want a new toilet because its "leaking" when its really just condensation!
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
Should have for your self the rotenberger rad rachet .... Sorry can not post link as I use my phone
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Bunker
Yes I've seen those but that's an extra tool, my way uses stuff I already have. 🙂
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
Leave it in a compartment in the top of your toolbox then it won't get lost under dust sheets etc.
Leave it in a compartment in the top of your toolbox then it won't get lost under dust sheets etc.
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
Don't carry round junk and scrap and tools you don't need in your van, only adds to weight and uses extra fuel hauling it all around.
Don't carry round junk and scrap and tools you don't need in your van, only adds to weight and uses extra fuel hauling it all around.
P
Plumb-pro
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
When applying silicone along a bath, basin etc i always spray with windolene before smoothing, this stops any smearing up the tiles and bath and gives a great finish.
When applying silicone along a bath, basin etc i always spray with windolene before smoothing, this stops any smearing up the tiles and bath and gives a great finish.
I
iiplumbing
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
I use the smallest amount of silicone possible and then from a cup of water wet my finger to smooth down. Different colour silicones sometimes behave differently, black being the most difficult (I used fairy liquid on finger to ease lubrication!)
I use the smallest amount of silicone possible and then from a cup of water wet my finger to smooth down. Different colour silicones sometimes behave differently, black being the most difficult (I used fairy liquid on finger to ease lubrication!)
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
I like that. I resent paying Rothenburger 30 sheets for a posh spud key!
Here's a tip talking of boilers - purchase this set of magnetic trays from Toolstation :
Magnetic trays. That way you can put boiler components into them as you remove them, and not mix screws up.
I personally have a couple of these trays, also from Toolstation- but wished I'd bought the above set as it's better value.
Magnetic tray
I like that. I resent paying Rothenburger 30 sheets for a posh spud key!
Here's a tip talking of boilers - purchase this set of magnetic trays from Toolstation :
Magnetic trays. That way you can put boiler components into them as you remove them, and not mix screws up.
I personally have a couple of these trays, also from Toolstation- but wished I'd bought the above set as it's better value.
Magnetic tray
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W
Whyme
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
Get a short piece of copper pipe with a stop end on to slide over your hot blowlamp nozzle when used in case it gets knocked over.
Get a short piece of copper pipe with a stop end on to slide over your hot blowlamp nozzle when used in case it gets knocked over.
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
do everybody else's do this or just mine?? the bernzomatic tip stays coldish all times, but the rothenberger jest goes red hot straight away when i solder a joint!
do everybody else's do this or just mine?? the bernzomatic tip stays coldish all times, but the rothenberger jest goes red hot straight away when i solder a joint!
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
Mine only gets red (glowing) hot if I turn the flame right down.
It always gets hot though! It's a blow torch.
I use Mapp gas BTW.
Mine only gets red (glowing) hot if I turn the flame right down.
It always gets hot though! It's a blow torch.
I use Mapp gas BTW.
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
allways carry an extra roll of solder in the van, don't know how many times that one has bitten me
allways carry an extra roll of solder in the van, don't know how many times that one has bitten me
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!
Mine doesn't mate. If I'm sweating a joint and want to be careful with it, I'll wind the gas right down. Only then will the end start to glow red.
Mine doesn't mate. If I'm sweating a joint and want to be careful with it, I'll wind the gas right down. Only then will the end start to glow red.
M
mickg1
when you fit a bath dont use the L shaped brackets there useless and you will get alot of movement from the bath, instead level the bath put a pencil line around the top of the bath ease the bath out of place and apply PINK GRIP adhesive about 10mm below your line, use plenty of it then throw your bath in place, give it a good wiggle to ensure it grips, if any goes on the bath dont rub it off, let it cure an it will just break off in go, (same goes for expanding foam if it gets on your hands dont rub it, let it cure an peal off in one go)
I
iiplumbing
I pity the poor fitter, who, in years to come, goes to remove one of your baths!
As for the "L" brackets, the problem with them is potentially splitting the wooden batten if you screw through without first pre-drilling. Also so many fitters (for ease of installation) put the bracket facing upwards (and then tiled over). Makes it a right pain if bath is to be removed without disturbing the tiles above!!
Why not put one bracket at each end (of the long side near each end) then one each on the near side, four brackets = bath reletively secure without the need for any adhesive, dont forget to use the lock bolts on the legs (they help stabilise as well and (before you tile) a sufficient but small amount of clear silicone between the bath edge and wall.
This silicone will be thin enough to secure but not enough so as to make it impossible to remove the bath without destroying the wall behind.
The finishing silicone then becomes a waterproofing and decorative layer and although it will also provide some mechanical grip that is not is what is intended, thus this top layer does not become stressed and fail causing a leak path.
www.iiplumbing-services-derby.co.uk
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Typical Plumbers post well done , unfortunatly all the builders that do bathrooms will never read this , or they will never listen to any plumbers advice
I can’t take full credit for this as I got the idea from another forum member who mentioned he had made one of these.
He didn’t detail how.
This ‘fence’ sprayer comes from Screwfix. It’s on special at the moment for £18.
If you remove the spray wand, a piece of 10mm copper tube fits in perfectly, and seals with the supplied O ring. Then screw on the back nut that comes with the sprayer, which also has a compression piece to hold the assembly tight. On the end of the 10mm pipe, I've got a 10/15mm compression adapter that I got supplied with a load of rad valves I bought. I've then got a 15mm compression coupling. Which is perfect for attaching a filling loop hose.
You then have your own dosing tool for sealed systems. You can use cheaper bottled chemicals and still put them in under pressure.
I initially tried using a reducing ‘bush’ on the male end of the fitting, but a 10mm bit of tube is miles better.
You also get the handle which you squeeze to activate the pump.
Anyway, get down Screwfix and buy one of these. They’re normally £25.
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Did Mike ever show us his 'original' version?
Like I said, the pump shown in mine is on special at the mo for £18.
Like I said, the pump shown in mine is on special at the mo for £18.
T
TBServices
I posted this tip before, but I'll do it again with a pic. Struggling to get PTFE on lagged cylinder unions? Wrap PTFE around a pencil, then use the pencil to apply the PTFE to the threads..............
This is a great tip! Although I'm not sure why you'd need ptfe on cylinder unions.
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