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Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws
to fix a dripping 1/4 turn tap ...
Take out ceramic discs ..thin piece of plastic (the bit that joins rawlplugs together ) ...in back groove on discs .
It pushes discs back together in fitting when refitted.
Done this a few times for taps that are constantly dripping and not had time to replace or get proper cartridges .
ps ...is temporary 😉
Take out ceramic discs ..thin piece of plastic (the bit that joins rawlplugs together ) ...in back groove on discs .
It pushes discs back together in fitting when refitted.
Done this a few times for taps that are constantly dripping and not had time to replace or get proper cartridges .
ps ...is temporary 😉
Had a site agent going of nut because my radiator wasnt level...infront of customer
Let him rant for a wee bit....went out and got level. was a 1600k2x300 below a low big window.
Place level on it ...just as he was slagging ALL plumbers ( he was ex vajoiner) .
Mine level...window 25mm left to right...floor 25mm opposite way
OH how I chortled ... 😉
:smug2: When fitting a rad under a sloping cill and floor, make sure the rad fools the eye even though you might have to drop one end. Our work might be crack on but if has to fit in with whatever is already there. :wink5:
i know that you can solder 8mm pipe inside a 10mm pipe if you havent got a coupling, but somebody told me today if you are changing rad valves on 8mm pipes and cant get 8mm valve or a 8-10 reducer, that if you solder a 8mm coupling on to the end of a pipe, that it will fit and not leak isnide a 10mm compression joint on the valve ?????
L
LPC
I fit my rads level. If the floor/window/house is lopsided then tough. If you want a rad fitted which isn't completely and utterly level to the millimeter then you need another plumber!
L
LPC
No No No. Can't do it, won't do it. I'm a bit OCD. I have a little boat level that I use on everything. Everything must be level and correct. But luckily I haven't ever actually encountered a situation where i've ever had to hang a radiator on the ****. But yeah, I wouldn't
W
Whyme
T
Terry_the_piper
Solder short end of 15mm to 22/15 end feed reducer. It fits into the neck of many screw top lemonade bottles very tightly. Cut bottom off bottle & instant funnel. Or use push fit 22/15 (If you can afford the expense) which saves soldering.
If you have a fein or any other multi tool there blades are very expensive, keep the old blades that are worn and weld hack saw blades on the end.
Little tip:
Have a system of storing your everyday tools that you repeat every single day.
I have always worked this way, but did some work with another plumber the other week, and realised he didn't do as I do.
It's all about repetition so it becomes second nature. I clip my van key with a carabiner to side as soon as I leave the van. Phone goes in pocket on left thigh. On my key ring I have a vent key, a meter key, and a washer that I can use to isolate ballafix valves in a pinch.
All my tools in the tote back go back in the exact same place every day. So does everything else in the van. So when I need something, I know where to place my hands to it straight away. How people don't work with this system is beyond me, but if you are one of these people. Adopt a system and stick to it. I do it as by nature I am a skatty forgetful person. So if I don't have a system I end up leaving tools behind, losing stuff, and generally more stressed.
Have a system of storing your everyday tools that you repeat every single day.
I have always worked this way, but did some work with another plumber the other week, and realised he didn't do as I do.
It's all about repetition so it becomes second nature. I clip my van key with a carabiner to side as soon as I leave the van. Phone goes in pocket on left thigh. On my key ring I have a vent key, a meter key, and a washer that I can use to isolate ballafix valves in a pinch.
All my tools in the tote back go back in the exact same place every day. So does everything else in the van. So when I need something, I know where to place my hands to it straight away. How people don't work with this system is beyond me, but if you are one of these people. Adopt a system and stick to it. I do it as by nature I am a skatty forgetful person. So if I don't have a system I end up leaving tools behind, losing stuff, and generally more stressed.
W
Whyme
my vans like that untill i work with an apprentice, then im hunting around for weeks trying to find tools that were stuffed in gaps or thrown in.. found a pair of 14" stilsons and some thread cutting fluid in my domestic servicing box once, thought it got a bit heavy.
Yeah, lads are a bit good at upsetting the apple cart, but I always explain that I'm clearly a weirdo and must maintain the system. Then they know it's me being a gimp but that's how I have to work.
That said, got out my socket set today. Everything all over the place. Last person to use it? Apprentice.
That said, got out my socket set today. Everything all over the place. Last person to use it? Apprentice.
never fit a rad out of level unless specifically told to by customer or agent you cant argue with the bubble if they want it changed afterwards then they pay if you fit it out of level and they dont like it then you have no argument cos they will always say its your fault
N
neily01
Got two new boys, finally got them to understand clean the gear away and stack it besides the van but never load it!
E
Ermintrude
Risky! I don't leave a screwdriver outside job or van. Walked outside to find cordless jigsaw level and tape on the front lawn of a house on a lovely estate... Hid it then asked lad to get me jigsaw..
W
Whyme
i do fit them unlevel. Obviously telling the cust or whoever the reasons. a level rad under a drunk sill looks awfull and a rads part of the astheatics of a room. gotta agree to disagree bud.
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B
basildog
It is all about common sense when it comes to whether you fit a rad level or not ??
If it looks wrong then it is and as for deliberately asking to be paid extra to alter as far as I am concerned you would be flying off site very fast !
I have worked on listed buildings for 30 years and we even build extensions on the :censored: to suit the original !
One architect we worked with had us putting in floors on the :censored: ! It is actually harder to do that than get the string line out .
As with everything in the building trade it is all about knowing your trade and the clients expectations we have gone to war with an architect before as he was blatantly ignoring the clients instructions ,at the end of the day they pay our wages so I listen to them ?
If it looks wrong then it is and as for deliberately asking to be paid extra to alter as far as I am concerned you would be flying off site very fast !
I have worked on listed buildings for 30 years and we even build extensions on the :censored: to suit the original !
One architect we worked with had us putting in floors on the :censored: ! It is actually harder to do that than get the string line out .
As with everything in the building trade it is all about knowing your trade and the clients expectations we have gone to war with an architect before as he was blatantly ignoring the clients instructions ,at the end of the day they pay our wages so I listen to them ?
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B
basildog
I always thought a reciprocating saw was over rated until I discovered LENOX blades it turned the saw into a great tool was really suprised at the difference which was what the guy at the fixings company said when he gave me one to try he said you will be back for more !
I was and it just shows you never stop learning !
I was and it just shows you never stop learning !
G
Gas
I bought some of these off ebay and thought they were absolutely rubbish, they are not a patch on the Bosch blades, even the cheapo Silverline blades are better.
They left me in a right pickle when i was cutting a CWSC out, i will never use no name brands again because of it.
B
basildog
yes I have tried all othe brands and would say LENOX are the best not cheap though !
I think they are American ?
The ones from ebay must have been a copy I would think ?
I think they are American ?
The ones from ebay must have been a copy I would think ?
E
Ermintrude
Lenox are part of the Irwin family. Blades aren't cheap. Possibly fakes from china? Or wrong blade selection ?
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The main frustration with Plumbers Mate centers round how to manipulate it. Nobody doubts it works when applied correctly but it's just properly hard to use. If you've got to return a WC to a pre-existing dodgy-looking pan connector you've not the time or inclination (or available stock) to replace, a ring of plumbers mate round the WC spigot (properly cleaned with an abrasive pad and some wipes first - oh joy) will sort it every time.
The way I've found that works is to never handle the same mm of it for more than half a second at a time. Keep it moving from finger to finger or it will stick to you. When you've got it where you want it start proding it at a million miles an hour, really quick, soft, finger moments pressing and persuading it this way and that. It starts to mould to your will rather than act like an autonomous little beggar. Bit like the wife.
The way I've found that works is to never handle the same mm of it for more than half a second at a time. Keep it moving from finger to finger or it will stick to you. When you've got it where you want it start proding it at a million miles an hour, really quick, soft, finger moments pressing and persuading it this way and that. It starts to mould to your will rather than act like an autonomous little beggar. Bit like the wife.
Don't know how we got onto plumbers mate, but back when I used that, which was a long time ago I did a couple of things.
I mixed a ball from a new tub with a ball from an old tub to give a better workable consistency. If I didnt have half an old tub, I would form a ball and roll it out on a bit on newspaper to remove some of the excess oil.
Haven't used plumbers mate for years, and don't see myself using it ever again!
Plumbers Gold on the other hand. Always carry a tube in clear and white. Lovely jollop!!
K
Kyle87
And the best way of getting plumbers mait off your fingers is to rub another ball of mait over it and that will snowball rather than stay stuck to you
T
tamz
Did no one ever play with putty when you were young? Fresh putty is much stickier but smells nicer.
E
Ermintrude
There clearly is oil in it. Leave in in a warm place for 2 weeks on a tray. It will split like Beurre blanc left under hot lights. Oil makes about 15% of it. That's why u shouldn't use it to seals sleeves on gas pipes.
T
tamz
Bet you never knew it was like this! I didn't but i don't use it so have never looked at the coshh sheet.
http://www.bostik.co.uk/sds/download_sds/PlumbersMaitQuickLeakRepairPutty-English/04415314.pdf
http://www.bostik.co.uk/sds/download_sds/PlumbersMaitQuickLeakRepairPutty-English/04415314.pdf
Think you have the repair one there Tamz the standard old style is
[DLMURL]http://www.indanc.com/downloads/pdf/Evo-Stik/Plumbers_Mait.pdf[/DLMURL]
Very dangerous stuff this one LOL
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i like this line best seeing as it is designed for use on waste joints
"Stop leak if possible without risk. Do not contaminate water sources or sewer. "
how does that work???
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W
woodytheplumber
one just popped to me today (im sure others will have used it plenty like as its so obvious but hey) when replacing a towel rad or standered rad upstairs and you cant find a drain off without lifting a trap or 2, find a downstairs rad has modern bleed valves you can drain straight into a large flexy tub through the bleed valve nice and easy allthough this wont allways work if all rads have been dropped from above
G
Gas
That would take all day and is not the best way to achieve what you did.
K
kay-jay
Far better to isolate valves and remove vent plug and replace with a compression coupler with a bit of pipe on it then open valves and fill a bucket or stick hose on pipe.
B
Bunker
K
kay-jay
Possibly. But it reads to me as though he is trying to 'bleed' the whole upstairs which would take forever
P
PlumbBobBob
also would be handy when you have a "nice" blocked toilet or drains
K
Kyle87
When my pipe slice gets less effective I put a new wheel in it!!
A good way to crawl below floorboards is get some good thick cardboard - like what comes with shower doors & boilers. Lay it down on the subfloors (which tend to be covered in rubble often) & you can just slide yourself on it very easily & it can be very comfortable & warm also.
Don't let a blow lamp near it though!
Don't let a blow lamp near it though!
G
Gas
Please make a video mate, this is either breakthrough sort of thinking or you are ****ed and robbed a trolly from the supermarket. :hand:
G
Gas
E
Ermintrude
U must strike it lucky. Normally old houses with decent voids have no over site or loads of rubbish under there or new ones har a 200mm void. No trolley will help me in an 200mm void as my middle engine is a little bigger than that!
K
kay-jay
Sentinel bottles make great drip trays. And look better than Ones with aldi chicken thighs written on them
Wonderful drip trays. I see you managed to almost catch half........😱
K
Kyle87
J
Jonwells
If you don't know what your doing leave it alone, or if the urge is too strong, at least talk to somebody who does 1st.
J
Jonwells
K
Kyle87
if you have done a hole with a holesaw but its the size too small and want to make it larger, then obviously its not as simple as just drilling away because you have nowhere for the centre bit to go and holesaw will just sbin around everywhere. you can do a jig with some ply, drill thr requred size hole thru the ply then scew that ipece down to the floor or whatever over the hole you want to make larger, this will keep the holesaw in place to start drillig!
also a great way to start off tile drilling, tile coring or even core drilling in awkward locations.
T
TBServices
Good idea!
Another way to do it if the hole is too small is to have the larger hole cutter you need & screw a hole cutter (same size as tge smaller hole) inside it - which will stick out a little more & act to guide the outer cutter. Brilliant for when you need to drill larger holes in plasterboard ceilings for down lights.
Laminate floors are a pain but not the end of the world, after fault finding a dead and empty radiator I deduced the problem pipe work had to be under the laminate floor in the dining room. I told the customer it had to be partially removed and I would do my best to put it back properly. I found two valves under there both turned off but I'd removed more or less half the dining room floor.
I was quite suprised that I managed to get it all back in one piece and when the customer came back from work she even said " so you didn't need to take it up after all!"
As long as you put the cut pieces in a seperate pile you cant really go wrong, also you have to ideally work backwards from the way it was fitted so start with the full length cut side.
This is just normal 6mm laminate though, don't know how easy it would be with the 18mm solid/engineered wood.
But its worth knowing it can be done for those of you that didn't know!
I was quite suprised that I managed to get it all back in one piece and when the customer came back from work she even said " so you didn't need to take it up after all!"
As long as you put the cut pieces in a seperate pile you cant really go wrong, also you have to ideally work backwards from the way it was fitted so start with the full length cut side.
This is just normal 6mm laminate though, don't know how easy it would be with the 18mm solid/engineered wood.
But its worth knowing it can be done for those of you that didn't know!
K
Kyle87
Grabbing a market pen and jotting on the backs to remind you which ones belong I. A row together might not be a bad idea either.
I've found the main thing is when you put two ends together its making sure they are PERFECT or the entire joint line will have a tiny gap and look bad
K
Kyle87
K
Kyle87
I keep a small piece of 9mm ply about 800mm x 400mm in the van.
I wrap it in a dust sheet and lay it across a bath when working on taps or showers. The same for a basin when changing taps and washers.
Stops you from dropping a spanner and damaging things and can slide under your toolboxes in van so doesn't take up any room.
I wrap it in a dust sheet and lay it across a bath when working on taps or showers. The same for a basin when changing taps and washers.
Stops you from dropping a spanner and damaging things and can slide under your toolboxes in van so doesn't take up any room.
Same principal when tiling a bathroom Kyle , put your cutter on it saves you bending down all the time
T
TBServices
I always put my cutter on top of its case, on top of my hop up.
For tiling above a bath, get a bit of old worktop/ply with a bit of nice soft carpet stuck to it.
get the snazzy bosch hole saw sets with the quick release arbor.
as they wear out you can take out the quick release section off the old holesaw and put on most other brands !!
the quick functionality of the quick release with any hole saw
or buy the adapters and the quick change arbor
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bosch-Con...Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item336a648ae3
as they wear out you can take out the quick release section off the old holesaw and put on most other brands !!
the quick functionality of the quick release with any hole saw
or buy the adapters and the quick change arbor
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bosch-Con...Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item336a648ae3
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T
TBServices
this reminded me always put the plug in or pop up down when working on tapssaves taking the trap of to find the screw or nut youve dropped in the basin
Haven't read all the thread so I might be repeating what someone has already posted but, I always keep a couple of spare test nipples, old rad air vents and the top off a thumb screw air vent
I once dropped a thumb screw air vent cap whilst filling (on my own) and couldn't find it anywhere, ended up tying my jumper around it while I ran back to the drain off........
Lesson learnt
I once dropped a thumb screw air vent cap whilst filling (on my own) and couldn't find it anywhere, ended up tying my jumper around it while I ran back to the drain off........
Lesson learnt
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