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Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

View the thread, titled "Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!" which is posted in UK Plumbers Forums on UK Plumbers Forums.

Need to change a syphon that wont flush.get a hose that is long enough to reach the pan and suck. Oviously not while in the pan. If its low enough the hose will syphon out the water and you can whip it off the wall without being full. 🙂
 
Need to change a syphon that wont flush.get a hose that is long enough to reach the pan and suck. Oviously not while in the pan. If its low enough the hose will syphon out the water and you can whip it off the wall without being full. 🙂

Bloo loo tastes worse than diesel. I'll stick to a sponge :wink:
 
Wet vac indeed. But if you dnt have one. Oh yeh tamz, like limescale on cylinder when drainoff dnt work lol.
 

Aye right Simon. I'll humpf a hoover up a flat stair to suck 2 pint of water out a cistern. Don't think so. I'd have the job done before you got it out the van even if it meant cracking the ballvalve jamb nut and wiping it up with a towel :wink:
 
Keep some spare test nipples in your bag! Nothing worse than one snapping off or worse loosing it in a semi concealed ! If u do snap off head of nipple simply get a good flathead screwdriver, put inside test point and give it a few whacks with hammer to get grip and unscrew! Obviously only should be done by a GSRI
 
im with you tamz anyone can do it with a small artic full 0of tools and spares what sorts the men from the boys is doing it with what you can carry olive splitters and fancy drain bowls comes to mind
 
To aid adding inhibitor, leak sealer or cleaner ect Make one of these up, keep compression fitting loose as then u can keep filler upright and tighten into rad. Take blanking plug out of other side as it avoids gurgling.

or use a speedfit you have taking off a leaking DIY install :devil2: you only need to screw into the rad hand tight, no tools needed

IMG_0398.jpg
 
If you use a full bore iso, and ran a bit of thin tube, maybe microbore through that assembly, the inhibitor would flow into the rad without even a glug - you ever shotgunned a bottle of beer witha straw in it? Works a treat!!
 
When you need to drain off only an upstairs but have a great drain point downstairs, hang your hose in a tree/ garage roof etc.
 
To Oil installers:
When you put a lovely new boiler in a lovely boiler room with all your lovely wiring centres and isolator switches......PLEASE please please, put a single socket in for my hoover...
 
to fix a dripping 1/4 turn tap ...
Take out ceramic discs ..thin piece of plastic (the bit that joins rawlplugs together ) ...in back groove on discs .
It pushes discs back together in fitting when refitted.
Done this a few times for taps that are constantly dripping and not had time to replace or get proper cartridges .
ps ...is temporary 😉
 
when fitting rads under a window sill measure down from the sill for top of bracket height fix brackets pop rad in place check levels and whichever side is the high spot pop the bleed valve on . I go to quite a few complaints (not my jobs) that are rads that seem un level when infact its spot on but they look out because of the sills

Had a site agent going of nut because my radiator wasnt level...infront of customer
Let him rant for a wee bit....went out and got level. was a 1600k2x300 below a low big window.
Place level on it ...just as he was slagging ALL plumbers ( he was ex vajoiner) .
Mine level...window 25mm left to right...floor 25mm opposite way

OH how I chortled ... 😉
 
Had a site agent going of nut because my radiator wasnt level...infront of customer
Let him rant for a wee bit....went out and got level. was a 1600k2x300 below a low big window.
Place level on it ...just as he was slagging ALL plumbers ( he was ex vajoiner) .
Mine level...window 25mm left to right...floor 25mm opposite way

OH how I chortled ... 😉

:smug2: When fitting a rad under a sloping cill and floor, make sure the rad fools the eye even though you might have to drop one end. Our work might be crack on but if has to fit in with whatever is already there. :wink5:
 
i know that you can solder 8mm pipe inside a 10mm pipe if you havent got a coupling, but somebody told me today if you are changing rad valves on 8mm pipes and cant get 8mm valve or a 8-10 reducer, that if you solder a 8mm coupling on to the end of a pipe, that it will fit and not leak isnide a 10mm compression joint on the valve ?????
 
:smug2: When fitting a rad under a sloping cill and floor, make sure the rad fools the eye even though you might have to drop one end. Our work might be crack on but if has to fit in with whatever is already there. :wink5:
I fit my rads level. If the floor/window/house is lopsided then tough. If you want a rad fitted which isn't completely and utterly level to the millimeter then you need another plumber!
 
I fit my rads level. If the floor/window/house is lopsided then tough. If you want a rad fitted which isn't completely and utterly level to the millimeter then you need another plumber!
Never, everything stays in uniform with me, if a sill is out a tad, my rad will be too.
 
Never, everything stays in uniform with me, if a sill is out a tad, my rad will be too.
No No No. Can't do it, won't do it. I'm a bit OCD. I have a little boat level that I use on everything. Everything must be level and correct. But luckily I haven't ever actually encountered a situation where i've ever had to hang a radiator on the ****. But yeah, I wouldn't
 
im with whn1 on this gotta look alright from a distance...
 
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To aid adding inhibitor, leak sealer or cleaner ect Make one of these up, keep compression fitting loose as then u can keep filler upright and tighten into rad. Take blanking plug out of other side as it avoids gurgling.
Solder short end of 15mm to 22/15 end feed reducer. It fits into the neck of many screw top lemonade bottles very tightly. Cut bottom off bottle & instant funnel. Or use push fit 22/15 (If you can afford the expense) which saves soldering.
 

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